Neighbourhood Naas

Neighbourhood hit the ground running when it opened in 2022, and no wonder. Before you have eaten a morsel you're sure to be charmed by the TLC that has gone into reimagining a former pub to create owner-manager Tom McGrath's beautifully warm and welcoming restaurant.

The smart understated chic of the dark green frontage and its well-tended flowers sets the tone for the class act that lies behind the door, where an enticing reception area with a few tables and banquette seating encourages lingering over a drink...And then, in a long room with a well stocked bar along the side where casual diners may perch, the work of an experienced team can be seen in the confident design and sheer quality of the restaurant, with its handsome bespoke tables, chairs and wine display units, all proudly hand crafted by Waterford Wood of Ardmore - and graced by tactile Fermoyle Pottery made in Kerry by Stephen O’Connell and Alexis Bowman.

And what a team. Chef Gareth Naughton opened Dublin's much-missed Circa in 2019 before joining the former Kildare star Aimsir, where the French-born Bar Manager (and mixologist) Kevin Hegarty also spent time before opening Neighbourhood. So it should come as no surprise that the influence of erstwhile Aimsir supremo, Jordan Bailey, runs deep, both in the overall philosophy and through consulting on the menus at Neighbourhood.

All of which begins to sound a lot like fine dining. But the real joy of Neighbourhood is that it’s that rare gem, an inclusive dining destination. The skills of an experienced and ambitious team are keenly focused on supporting local suppliers and pleasing guests, who will not only relish the finesse and flavour of the cooking but - delighted also by the good value offered - keep coming back for more.

Strongly seasonal and highly sociable menus are carefully planned to offer something for everyone, whether it be snacks (Hegarty’s Cheddar Croquettes are favourite, for example), small plates (Grilled Currach Scallops, perhaps) or larger plates for sharing (this is beef country, so don’t miss JJ Young’s Dry Aged Beef Fillet – or Venison, in season), all given a sense of place by the sprinkling of producers name-checked on dishes and detailed provenance on the website. The delicious desserts include some surprises and cheese lovers will be especially pleased with the number of Irish artisan cheeses that find their way into the cooking as well as featuring in an after dinner selection.

The wine list includes a great mix of European organic wines - and it’s clearly a work in progress, so hopefully the growing range may soon include more choice at an accessible entry level.

Chef Gareth Naughton has a lovely lightness of touch in all his cooking. Every dish is beautifully constructed and cooked, and there is simultaneously a complexity and simplicity that raises them to a new level without affectation. Menus are not overlong and it’s worth checking out the (very informative) website beforehand to add to the anticipation. And it’s not all about special evening dining – the deliciously accessible lunchtime menu is an important part of the mix here, also Sunday lunch with a proper roast menu, and it’s great to see a restaurant of this calibre offering casual seats at the bar, a sign of their genuine neighbourhood role in this busy town. If only every Irish town had a restaurant like Neighbourhood - Naas is fortunate to have other good places to eat, but it is very lucky to have this one.