Georgina Campbell
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A marriage of excellence, creativity and flair, Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen is the most extraordinary restaurant in Ireland at the moment. Bringing together two of the biggest names in fine dining, Ross Lewis and Mickael Viljanen, formerly of the GreenHouse, the exciting collaboration saw Viljanen take over the Parnell Square favourite as chef-patron.
Viljanen’s signature style of gastronomy is outstanding, each dish playful and meticulous, a mini masterpiece ready to be savoured in the smart new dining room. Overseen by Chapter One stalwart, GM Danny Desmond, this deluxe new dining space has fewer tables, with banquettes removed. Generous round tables are draped in floor-length linen, there’s a slick new service console and glossy details like luxurious new panelling and bar furniture. Despite the stylish tweaks, which include a beautifully reimagined private diningroom with illuminated wall of historic Midleton whiskeys, the restaurant is reassuringly familiar. Comfortable, relaxed and welcoming, signature art pieces now hang with contemporary additions, including a striking set of photographic portraits shot on the streets of Dublin 1.
Celebrated for its exceptional front of house team, guests will be relieved to find that same unique and friendly brand of service – engaged, smooth and always so much fun. Everything about the reopening feels plusher this time around, from the tableware to the menus and Viljanen’s picture perfect dishes.
From tiny gilded canapés – perhaps an orb of gazpacho disguised as a cherry tomato or a marinated hand-dived Donegal scallop, thinly sliced on elderflower and jalapeno bouillon and anointed with horseradish and smoked pike roe – there’s joy in the presentation and each blissful bite. Foie gras is always a favourite of Viljanen, and he elevates this luxurious ingredient to new heights with the addition of Pineau de Charantes, coffee and Thornhill duck jelly. Served alongside a Guinness and treacle brioche with duck fat butter, this cooking is as audacious as it is decadently delicious.
Main courses might see Donegal lobster pristinely glazed in cacao pod concentrate with kari goss, juicy pomelo and redcurrant or Rex du Poitou rabbit with rabbit liver parfait, kohlrabi flowers and mustard. Drawing on global flavours, ingredients and techniques, each dish is sensational. Viljanen’s food is simply outstanding.
Desserts and petit fours continue the theatre, created by Darren ‘Stan’ Hogarty. A new Chartreuse soufflé rivals the GreenHouse’s signature passionfruit masterpiece, accompanied this time by violet ice cream and chartreuse sauce. Pretty jewelled mignardises include delicate chocolates, paté de fruits and flamboyant bite-sized pastries, ensuring each meal finishes as perfectly as it starts
Tasting menus showcase the breadth of talent on display, with the 8-course dinner menu €150 and matching wines €105. A four-course dinner menu is €120 and €65 at lunchtme, representing excellent value. A surprise tasting menu at lunchtime costs €120.
Wine service is a pleasure overseen by Head Sommelier, Guillaume Gorichon and Sommelier Paul Gartland, who returns to Chapter One from The GreenHouse. With head waiter James O’Brien still here too, diners will enjoy the very best of Irish hospitality.
Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen is flawless. An extraordinary Irish restaurant with an extraordinary Finnish chef, Dublin is lucky to have this world class destination in its city centre.
