Variety Jones is Keelan Higgs’ first restaurant, and is as off-beat and on-trend as we could have hoped for.
Keelan is frequently to be found at the coalface of Dublin's hottest restaurants. This is not by chance. He's a chef's chef – turning out smart food that off-duty cooks flock to eat on night's off – but he's also a trendsetter and people-pleaser. Stints at Locks and Luna have seen him become one of the capital’s most exciting chefs.
Variety Jones, on the top of Thomas Street, is small and casual. The space is long and narrow, the menu short and seductive. Décor is simple, no frills, with well spaced tables, exposed brick and a large, contemporary urban mural. The room looks like it’s had a bite taken out of it, but there’s a buzzy atmosphere, with cool tunes, presided over by a calm open kitchen.
With just 8 dishes, plus a single dessert, the menu is exciting and original. Flavours are gently teased from carefully chosen ingredients, offering fresh and unusual combinations.
Everything is thoughtfully conceived, with the right element of surprise in every dish. Starters might include Flaggy Shore oysters with Vietnamese dressing or a silky chicken liver parfait with pickled onion and airy potato bread.
The open kitchen has an open wood-burning fire which Higgs uses to char and smoke. There’s delicious home made pasta and mains are served family style, perhaps a platter of silken venison loin with hearth-roasted celeriac, wild mushrooms and a jug of fiery peppercorn gravy.
The wine list offers 20 affordably priced bottles, many organic and natural, with sommelier Vanda Ivan?i? changing the list monthly. Front of house is run by Keelan’s brother, Aaron, who is both chilled out and charming.
Variety Jones is cool, exciting and different. It’s serving real food with vision in a relaxed and fun space. Prepare to become a regular.
