With a reputation for lively dining and decent Italian food this long-running Dublin restaurants long been a favourite of politicians and media types, although falling out of favour in recent years, following a series of high profile pwnership changes.
The place itself doesn't changed too dramatically however, and - with its low ceiling, small linen-clad tables, banquettes, subtle lighting, a little bar and lovely terrace that’s a charm on a warm summer’s night - it’s an intimate, comfortable space that works well for lunch or dinner, groups or dates.
The cooking is enduringly Italian with fresh pasta, quality meat and seafood all represented. Portions are generous, and the homemade pasta – maybe gnocchi with clams, pappardelle with braised rabbit legs and wild mushroom jus or linguini with Dublin bay prawns, garlic and n’duja butter – is all made with care in-house.
Daily specials are always worth considering and, while an occasional dish may fall short of expectations, eating here is a pleasure.
Italian favourites feature strongly on the wine list and a short selection of wines by the glass and carafe is a welcome touch.
The staff are friendly, exuding Italian charm and The Unicorn is always delightful but it is particularly charming in summer, as the doors open out onto a terrace which is used for al fresco dining in fine weather.