A sunshine yellow facade leading into a sunny yellow interior, with dove grey paintwork, vases of daffodils and bowls of kaleidoscopic salads: Tiller & Grain has vitality and freshness written all over it.
No surprise then that its owner, chef Clair Dowling, is an alumnus of Ottolenghi and Skye Gyngell, two chefs renowned for their refreshing approach to seasonal simplicity. The space is compact, but beautifully designed.
A little counter close to the door showcases six bowls of rainbow salads and a protein – maybe an Asian-style poached ling with pickled cucumber and chillies – as well as a soup, and two hotpots, one of which is always vegan. There’s a few unusual sandwich choices too (on Bread Nation loaves, no less) though Tiller + Grain’s salads are the stars and easily the best in Dublin.
Incorporating imaginative combinations of grains, herbs, vegetables, leaves and spices Clair’s recipes are balanced with texture, flavour and great umami kicks. Rainbow-hued choices might include crunchy Winter salad with kale, parsley, pickled fennel, watermelon, radish and carrots, perhaps crunchy purple sprouting broccoli with a feisty olive and mint dressing, or maybe roasted red and golden beetroot salad with candied and pickled beets with creamy butterbean hummus. Everything is well thought out, properly dressed, nicely presented and singing with freshness.
Signs make choosing easy, but lovely and helpful staff will enthusiastically take you through the choices.
Popular with local workers for grab-and-go salad bowls, soup and sambos, there’s also seating for 14 tucked down the back, though you’ll need to get there early as they don't take reservations.
Excellent Imbibe coffee and a fridge of drinks, including Green Beards’ juices, offers good choices.
Baked goodies are piled high and include a good choice of vegan and non-vegan treats. The menu will change regularly, though it looks as if the wonderfully chewy pecan and dark chocolate cookies could be here to stay.
A welcome addition to the Dublin scene, Tiller + Grain offers a wholesome, delicious and positive experience. With such great cooking and sourcing we’d love to see them list the brilliant Irish produce they’re working with.
