A compact corner café in the shadow of the old Central Bank, Niall Sabongi’s smart seafood restaurant is as cool and clever as its reputation suggests. The glass walled box wraps around a booths-and-bar counter set-up, from where the cooking is done in plain view of customers.
Booths (that seat four) and bar stools make up the majority of the seating, with one table for six down the back, which can be booked (otherwise it’s a walk-in policy).
It’s all modern, clean lines and pared back but comfy. Service is friendly, with staff knowledgeable about the offerings.
Given the small space the menu is lengthy, and imaginative. A selection of oysters from The Burren, Waterford, Galway Bay and Connemara can be ordered naked or dressed and torched. These are joined by a selection of excellent Irish shellfish – grilled local lobster, whole Dublin Bay Prawns, and dressed local crab.
Snacks like East Coast crab on toast or salt cod croquettes make tasty nibbles with a glass of wine, while bigger plates lend themselves towards a more traditional starter and main approach.
Niall expertly teases the flavour out of fabulous fresh ingredients, maybe a flavour-packed salmon taco or simple ceviche of red snapper, beautifully dressed with complementary flavours like bitter leaves or zingy yuzu mayonnaise. You’ll find classics too, like Killary Fjord moules marinière, fish and chips and clam chowder. Signature lobster roll, with succulent lobster pieces in pillow-soft bread zings with New England sass.
Dishes are served as they’re ready, so it makes sense to order a selection of plates and be prepare to share. A short dessert selection includes excellent chocolate fondant. (Tea drinkers will love that tea is served in extra large cups, which makes for a welcome change.)
Raising the standard of fish and shellfish in Ireland,The Seafood Café continues Sabongi’s creativity and quest for quality and is supplied by his own wholesale company, Sustainable Seafood Ireland. We may associate lobster rolls with New England, but given the clever formula here, we’re edging closer to establishing New Ireland seafood as the benchmark in excellence.
*Niall Sabongi’s food truck The Salty Buoy (www.saltybuoy.ie) also brings delight to fans in Dublin and Wicklow.
