Confident delivery from the team behind Stillorgan’s RIBA of Spanish small plates (think classic tapas to racion-sized portions of national treasure dishes like paella) and attractive prices on an interesting wine list makes this warm neighbourhood wine bar and restaurant a welcome addition to Stepaside village. The bar itself is a smart spot to grab a bitter vermut or traditional Rebujito (an aperitif of manzanilla sherry, with lemonade, soda and mint) while sizing up head chef Manuel Alfaro’s menu. Divided into picoteo (snacks), charcuterie and cheese boards, carne (meat), pescado (fish) and vegetariano, the menu is suitably scattered through with treats from this Cádiz native’s corner of Andalusia, such as like Aceituna Gordal Olives from Sevilla which make a perfect start with a glass of dry manzanilla sherry.
That focus on careful sourcing and respectful handling of top quality ingredients carries through from the salted Marcona almonds to the perfectly wilted Padrón peppers or the gilda pintxos made with Cantabrian anchovy. It’s there too in the paella del dia, made daily with different flavours (maybe chicken and prawns) but always cooked to order with bomba rice, saffron and homemade stock, each glistening grain holding its own form, yet coming together as a moreish whole. Other daily blackboard specials night include Killary Fjord mussels in a white wine cream, alongside a Tortilla Espanola of the day, such as with red peppers and Mahon cheese from Menorca.
Portion sizes vary considerably depending on the ingredients involved: Vieras a la Bilbaina (translated on the menu as scallops with a garlic and white wine emulsion, but also featuring red and green chillies, a slick of rich green olive oil and a piquant tang of cider vinegar) is the size of a large starter, while Pulpo a la Gallega (Galician-style octopus with al dente potatoes, a light dusting of 'Pimenton de la Vera' paprika and olive oil) is more main course sized. It might be good idea to ask the friendly front of house staff for guidance on portion size.
Staff can also give a solid steer on not-to-miss dishes like their excellent Bacalao en Adoba, somewhat undersold as ‘spiced fried cod chunks’ which doesn’t do justice to crispness of the light batter, perfect pitching of the spicing or pristine flakiness of the salted cod. The Croquetas de Setas (mushroom croquettes with mascarpone) were another winning recommendation, all crispy exterior and yielding umami interior.
Whether you are vegetarian, pescatarian or carnivore, the extensive menu leaves you spoilt for choice – chorizo fans have three dishes to choose from, for example, of which we can definitely recommend the Chorizo al Vino (chorizo in white wine and peppers) – and already planning return visits. If that choice is just too challenging, the Chef’s Selection for Two offers a helpful as well as pocket-friendly structure, and is available in vegetable-, seafood- or meat-based versions too.
That sense of spoiling carries through to an unusually broad choice of authentic Spanish desserts, including churros, creme Catalana and Basque-style burnt cheesecake. A wonderful Torrijas con Miel (Spanish bread pudding with creme anglaise and fruit jam) manages to be refreshing and comforting all at once, served cold and eating light yet moreish with its custard texture.
The wine list is notable for its accessible value as well as curious gems worth splurging on, whether by the bottle, carafe or glass (with several poured by Coravin), and staff are happy to give you tastes of those available by the glass. Beer and cider drinkers and drivers are well covered too.
Add to all of this a genuinely warm welcome matched by professional efficiency – and a comfortable room decked out in earthy tones with understated touches and pleasing textures – and lucky Stepaside locals have lots to keep them coming back again and again.
