Just off the Grand Canal at Portobello in the premises that formerly housed the legendary late-night Gig’s Place, Richmond is now a popular local bistro headed up by owner-manager Russell Wilde (a talented front-of-house veteran of Dublin’s dining scene) and his creative head chef David O’Byrne. Regulars come as much for the discreet and understated yet welcoming service as they do for the O’Byrne’s skilful cooking, which draws on classic European techniques to extract maximum flavour from well-sourced ingredients.
Since the revamp, the old building has revealed its rustic charm, with rough-hewn walls, leather banquettes, original wooden floors and warm lighting creating a cosy bistro setting for David O’Byrne's delicious - and very fairly priced - cooking.
While Richmond is famous for its pies and burgers (the Richmond 8oz Dexter burger comes in a brioche bun with Monterey Jack, tomato, onion, pickles, smoked paprika, and fries ...) these are no ordinary pies and birgers - and a glance at a typical dinner menu should give plenty of clues as to where the difference lies. It may kick off, for example, with a dish that few Dublin chefs will offer, such as Rabbit soup with crispy leg, black pudding and mustard - a sure reminder of David O’Byrne's time in the kitchen at the late lamented La Mère Zou, where the traditional French cooking of underated ingredients such as rabbit, and simple classics like ham hock terrine was such a joy.
The Richmond repertoire includes many of these treats and even the reduced menus offered during the times of lockdown have continued to delight. Arancini balls in a crunchy rice coating yield to a moreish interior of subtly spiced lamb shoulder, foregrounded by a text-book almond-enriched romesco sauce of sweet red pepper. A main course of pressed duck leg dressed in a perfectly pitched date sauce is served with vibrant spring greens (broad beans and tender stem broccoli) and fat nuggets of fregola pasta; and a beautiful piece of sea trout comes with with plump mussels, sweet peas, shaved fennel and the kind of bisque sauce that takes time, patience and a professional touch.
Sides are invariably typical of O'Byrne's creative attention to detail (cauliflower in cheese custard, and baby potatoes in a tomato pesto, perhaps) while dessert may be a clever combo of rich chocolate brownie, crunchy honeycomb and zingy blackberry sauce.
This is food to bring comfort and pleasure during times that warrant both, and a reminder of why restaurants like Richmond are so worth supporting and protecting.
