Anyone wondering whether Ireland has a culinary heritage should make a beeline for Andrea Hussey and Stephen McAllister's deservedly popular restaurant, The Pig’s Ear. Flying the flag for modern Irish cooking since 2008, chef-proprietor Stephen McAllister marries classic Irish tradition with the best in local ingredients.
In a great location overlooking Trinity College’s playing fields, this Dublin restaurants three bright dining rooms have varnished floor boards, bare-topped wooden tables, high ceilings and large sash windows that flood the space with natural light. The third floor Library is especially popular for intimate private dining. The pared back décor mirrors the food ethos in its simplicity and stylishness.
Well known as a TV chef, Stephen McAllister has an impressive CV that’s seen him work in the kitchens of many of Dublin’s leading restaurants, including One Pico, L'Ecrivain and Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud. A long-time champion of Ireland’s finest ingredients, from Casteltownbere crab to Jane Russell’s black pudding, there’s a lightness of touch to Stephen’s cooking that elevates the simplest ingredients to knock-out status. Ably assisted by head chef Damien Derwin the pair deliver big-flavoured food that is elegantly plated on beautiful tableware.
Alongside signature dishes like the excellent slow cooked McLoughlin’s Butchers Texel Shepherd’s Pie you’ll find tweaked classics, perhaps Guinea Fowl with asparagus and smoked black pudding, line-caught cod or Cuinneog Farm buttermilk junket.
Rather appropriately (given the name) you can expect pork (from TJ Crowe) in some lip-smacking incarnation on the menu, maybe barbecued pork belly with Gubbeen chorizo or a robust ham knuckle, duck and foie gras terrine.
Tasty desserts are also inspired by tradition, including treats like pavlova and rhubarb, or the Pig’s Ear ‘Jaffa Cake’.
If you don’t land a window table with a view you’ll still enjoy a lovely buzzy room, attentive service and a quality wine offering, including Irish beer, that’s been well chosen to accompany the lovely cooking.
Whether you need reminding how good Ireland’s produce is, or are simply looking for an introduction to modern Irish cuisine, The Pig’s Ear won’t disappoint.
*NB - Above the restaurant, a stylishly spare room offers 'The Chef's Counter', where a special 12 course tasting menu can be prepared with 24 hours notice. While designed to be informal - there are six counter seats as well as one large table for eight - this is sure to be a memorable dining experience.
Also at: The celebrated pub-restaurant Spitalfields is a younger sister to The Pig's Ear (25 The Coombe, Dublin 8; Tel: 01-454 6921). See separate entry.
