Lyla's bright red frontage and smart signage is easy to spot just off Kilkenny's bustling High Street, in the former Truffles premises. But once inside it's a different world, as the new owners - siblings Michael O'Neill and Bee O'Grady, of the wonderful Mountain View Estate at Ballyhale (which they established on their father's farm and golf course) and historic Petronella, nearby in the city - have undertaken a major refurb, resulting in a gorgeously glamorous destination with plush, ritzy decor that would not be out of place in any major city.
And Lyla's, which is named after Michael's daughter, is proving a hit with all age groups. The little bar, with eye catching cocktails in the making, is the focal point on arrival and just the spot to enjoy one of their signature cocktails while taking in the atmosphere (cosy, warm and highly Instagrammable) and noting the Chef's Table with seating for six, where a tasting menu will be served by the chefs and paired to selected wines - which is a first for Kilkenny. Smartly dressed and well trained waiting staff show arriving guests to simple but classily appointed (if somewhat compact) tables, and offer the wine list and menus. With just five dishes on each course, the short but carefully constructed menu offers an interesting mix of Italian, Asian and Irish dishes, including signature starter Lyla’s Crispy Duck Salad and a house special main, Lyla’s Signature Shepherd's Pie.
The cooking and presentation are excellent across the board, with highlights possibly including a Ceviche of Seabass and Scallops (a perfect example of this tasty starter. it's a picture on a plate) and a main course Risotto with Crabmeat and grilled King Crab (made with excellent stock and cooked to perfection), while baked Sicilian Lemon Tart is a must-try if available, with candied Yazu making a perfect foil for the richness of the tart.
It is early days yet at Lyla’s and it will be a work in progress for a while - the wine list could be developed to give more information, for example, and more local food provenance may be expected soon, in line with the group's other restaurants. But Kilkenny native Group Executive Chef Gerard Dunne is doing a great job guiding all three kitchens - and, as well as having the prettiest dining room in Kilkenny, a full restaurant with a mixed clientèle means they have got the menu mix right at Lyla's. It will be a great addition to the city's already booming hospitality scene.
