It's difficult not to like Locks. Through many incarnations, the canalside favourite has traded under the same name since Claire and Richard Douglas opened here in the 1980s - yet, despite changes in ownership, decor and cooking styles along the way it has never lost its appeal. One of the capital’s smartest and comfiest dining rooms, the waterside location and cosy décor make it a popular space for the Portobello neighbourhood and beyond.
The ground floor room is flooded with light on two sides, its walls hanging with art that is for sale and changes regularly - although, for waterside tables, the sight of swans gliding serenely along the canal is the prettierst picture of all. Seating is a mix of banquettes and deep chairs, making it extra comfy for lingering over lunch or late night digestifs.
If lunch and dinner are a big deal at Locks, Sunday lunch has almost become the main attraction. It's an all-round popular destination for dates and occasion dining, but come Sunday, the lovely light-filled dining room can be found full of chefs, restaurateurs and industry types tucking into generous plates of outstanding food.
Returning chefs have been a feature of Locks over the years and current head chef Andy Roche caused a stir in 2021, when he returned via the wonderful Aimsir in Co Kildare - and Locks is certainly better than ever. He teases every ounce of flavour from top quality name-checked ingredients, and (without being unduly precious) his plating and presentation are pretty as a picture.
Menus change frequently and there will be many exciting choices but - like other excellent chefs before him - Andy Roche shows great respect for the affection that people have for Locks and its traditions. For meat lovers, that has to include the main course signature dish, Hannan’s Delmonico salt aged rib-eye for two, tempura onion, malt vinegar, sauce bordelaise (c.€70), a veritable feast which merits planning - so go easy on the small plate starters in order to enjoy it to the full.
Creative sides are offered separately and dishes like Charred sprouting broccoli, roasted hazelnut miso and Baby potato & nori, black sesame, lemon show an equal commitment to innovation - as do desserts, such as an earthily unctuous Parsnip custard tart, dark chocolate, chicory coffee ice cream, although an outstanding Irish cheese selection is also well worth consider (c.€16 for two).
Upstairs are two beautiful private dining rooms and there’s an excellent drinks offering too, with a small bar serving beer by the tap, a full range of spirits and a really well thought out wine list.
Thoughtful details, like the breads (Seeded Sourdough, Guinness & Treacle brown bread) served with Cultured butter & Dillisk (c.€4 and a signature dish in itself), fresh flowers and cool tunes all add to the appeal of this lovely spot and it's good to see it enjoying the spotlight again.
