If Liath is difficult to find, it’s even trickier to get a seat in. Tucked away deep within Blackrock Market, two discreet grey doors on the low-key exterior open like the wardrobe to Narnia. Behind them lies a restaurant so special, so clever and so delightful that the whole experience will feel like a dream. With just 12 seats, it offers a sense of escapism and exclusivity as the staff whisk you away to the kind of culinary highs few restaurants will ever achieve.
The decor is understated, contemporary and elegant, with linen table cloths, soft lighting and a fabulous open kitchen in view of all diners. Chef-owner Damien Grey once plied his trade here as one half of the outstanding Heron & Grey. When Heron moved on, he seized the opportunity to reinvent the small space in spring 2019, allowing him to recalibrate his already exceptional modern Irish cuisine. The revamped room, larger kitchen, name change to Liath (Irish for Grey) and switch up to ten-course tasting menus four nights a week, marks the start of something extraordinary.
The Liath team is a small, well-oiled outfit, spearheaded front-of-house by the ebullient Niall O’Connor whose love of wine is infectious. A seasoned pro, the West Cork manager revels in the opportunity to recommend interesting wines and enjoys pairing bottles from the extensive cellar with Grey’s intricate dishes.
In order to ensure a flawless experience, Liath offers just two sittings of either 7.30 or 8.30pm. Half the dining room is seated at the earlier time, allowing for the cooking and service to flow. It’s a system that works well, the chefs bringing the dishes to the table as they’re ready.
The ten-course-offering unfolds like a well directed movie, with a gripping opening, compelling narrative and sublime cast. The courses are well paced, allowing time to savour each dish that’s been carefully considered, expertly cooked and beautifully plated. Each dish has a star ingredient with supporting cast of textures, the flavours developing with each course.
Picture-perfect snacks, perhaps a glossy disc of foie gras with shallot and ice wine, start the momentum, leading boldly from vegetable dishes – maybe paper thin courgette slivers with lemon and chipotle to an earthy celebration of celeriac with kohlrabi and parsley – towards seafood and meat courses. The progression of flavours is deliberate, building up to a crescendo.
Glistening mackerel with charred skin offset by orange and wood sorrel might be followed by an umami hit of smoked eel topped by 36-month-old liquid parmesan and fennel pollen in a tiny cone. A mushroom dish of shiitake-stuffed dumpling on girolles dressed with white soy is smart and thrilling, before a dish of tender pink Challans duck with smoky hispi cabbage. There’s a cheese course too, followed by desserts that are equally delicate and delicious.
You’ll be gifted a copy of the menu at the evening’s end, ensuring a delightful element of surprise all night. The seasons dictate the menu, with Grey showcasing the finest of Irish produce, mixing up new dishes with tweaks on Heron & Grey favourites. Dishes are playful, colourful and creative; there is no gimmickry here, no trickery, no nonsense. Each plate tells its only story, lingering on the palate and in the mind.
At first glance, €120 might seem expensive, for food, but when you consider the level of cooking and quality of the experience it seems something of a bargain. A 7-wine tasting option is available and it is remarkable value given the quality of the drinking and very real possibility of discovering something new and delicious (which Niall should be able to advise you where to buy.) An interesting non-alcoholic pairing is also available, comprising 7 house-made elixirs of fruit kombucha, infusions and herbal teas. The wine list presents plenty of interesting choices, should you wish to simply order a bottle.
Liath’s dining room is exceptionally comfortable, with a gentle buzz of diners having fun and a kitchen that is calm and focused. Niall oversee everything with charm and humour, and the interaction with the chefs at the table connects the whole experience.
Tables sell out within minutes of being released (follow Liath online to see the date of the next set of reservations.) There’s a good wait list system however, which allows you add your name to a cancellations list. Everyone registered is sent an email if a table become available, and it’s a case of fastest finger first. Cancellations do come up, and this system ups your chances of landing a table.
It’s hard to find fault with Liath. It is, quite simply, a sensational restaurant. Small? Yes. But perfectly formed.
