With its prominent position on the hill just beyond the bridge as you come into Cahir, it's unlikely that Lava Rock would go unnoticed, but its large modern frontage doesn't give too much away - and maybe that's just the way the locals like it, as it has a loyal following in the area.
Once inside, the two stylishly contemporary rooms are designed to contrast with the traditional feel of the town - and the windows are set quite high so diners don't look out onto the busy through road, which is relaxing and adds to the feeling that this is somehow a local secret.
And there are features that are unusal in rural restaurants - air conditioning, for a start, which is very welcome in a hot summer, as is the off street outside eating area. But perhaps most suprisingly, the restaurant is unlicensed and operates a Bring Your Own policy, which is great if you come prepared as there is no corkage charge.
And first time visitors soon discover that this is a place that is serious about its food - while there may be little specific provenance, there's an eat local policy and the care that goes into food sourcing and careful cooking shows on the plate.
So the seasonally changing menus reflect the produce of the area - especially beef (slow braised and deep-flavoured perhaps, chargrilled steaks), also poultry (try the duck burger), and good fish and seafood (a very tasty Seafood Hotpot perhaps).
Local vegetables star in season - beetroot, for example, in dishes like Vanilla Roasted Organic Beetroot Salad (Annie’s farmed organic greens, Tipperary goats cheese, honeycomb, lemon dressing), and a beetroot and wild mushroom risotto - while, by contrast, indulgent desserts will always chocolate (White chocolate and sour cream mousse, perhaps, with orange jelly and vanilla ice-cream.)
All round the modern cooking and presentation is outstanding and well matched by professional service - and, as to drinks, although you may bring your own wine soft drinks are offered and one to savour is the delicious apple juice from the nearby Apple Farm owned by Con Traas.
If you choose from the Early Bird menu, you’ll find quite a few of the dishes from the A La Carte offered on it - and, while the choice is less expansive, you can also enjoy an excellent lunch here.
All this and good value too - well worth a detour.