Finnish chef Mickael Viljanen isn’t known for resting on his laurels. Wowing Dublin Restaurants diners since 2012 when he moved from Gregan’s Castle in The Burren and made a name for himself in Dublin, this creative genius never stops innovating, pushing and perfecting.
So, it was no surprise that lockdown during 2020 did little to dampen the drive and determination of this remarkable chef and his brigade. The talented team – which includes international San Pellegrino Young Chef 2015, Mark Moriarity – worked away in the kitchen behind closed doors, innovating and experimenting with flavour combinations, happy to further push the boundaries of their already extraordinary repertoire.
Viljanen leads the charge, with a talent that few could dream of possessing. Revered for his brilliant flavour pairings and uncompromising attention to detail, he’s a culinary perfectionist whose food brings immense joy. Playing to a loyal audience, every meal is a theatrical treat with Mickael’s ever-evolving menus drawing on his Nordic roots, classical skills, superb Irish seafood and the finest French ingredients.
A meal always starts with superb bread, farmhouse butter and dramatic amuse bouches, perhaps an exquisite Comté tartlet with acidulated truffle and late summer herbs, or a Flaggy Shore oyster tartlet dotted with smoky pike roe.
Mickael teases intense flavour from everything he cooks, from succulent Balscadden lobster to rich Anjou pigeon, gilt-head bream to wild salmon. Delights like a tourte of truffled game and foie gras or hand-dived scallop with elderflower, jalapeno and oyster pearls celebrate the seasons and his menus flow like a world class symphony. Conjuring up plate after exquisite plate, each course is as beautiful to look at as it is to taste.
The pastry section is just as thrilling, creating picture-perfect desserts that always surprise. Think Vacherin Mont Blanc with white truffle, Piedmonte hazelnuts, chestnuts and aged vanilla rum or chocolate delice with miso, buckwheat, tonka bean and honey vinegar.
Crisp white linen, elegant stemware and delicate tableware set a stylish backdrop for the magnificent cooking, each playing a role in the sense of occasion of dining here. The intimate dining room has recently had a subtle revamp, introducing a dark ceiling, velvet seating and a more private dining space beside the kitchen. Overseen by industry stalwart Darren Campbell (ex Chapter One), he leads a front of house team with fun and flawless service. Sommelier Paul Gartland brings charm and competency to his role, his relaxed style belying his extensive knowledge. He has a superb wine list to work with, from exciting entry level pricing (€45) to blow-the-budget big hitters. There’s plenty of choice by the glass, and Paul will do a great job pairing flights to the menu.
Orchestrated with precision, flair and fun, The Greenhouse represents the pinnacle of fine dining in Ireland - and proprietor Eamonn O’Reilly (who also owns One Pico) is always as ready as Mickael to take this outstanding restaurant to even higher levels. A stylish, sophisticated and sensational experience.
