Since opening in late 2018, the unassuming Grano in Stoneybatter has become one of the hottest properties on the northside. Serving up simple, ingredient-focused cooking with Slow Food credentials, diners come to enjoy the kind of southern Italian flavours rarely seen this side of Calabria.
Run by Roberto Mungo, whose mother, Mamma Roma, occasionally features in the kitchen hand rolling pasta, there’s care and love poured into every dish on the menu. Much of the seasonal produce arrives daily from Italy – wild Sicilian fennel, Amalfi lemons, salty bottarga, dry cured Capocollo ham, smoked N’duja, Calabrian black pig ham – ensuring superb flavour in every dish, while respecting the roots and traditions of Italian cooking.
Pasta choices might include homemade pappardelle with slow cooked wild boar ragù, or perfectly understated house spaghetti with sardines, saffron, pine nuts, raisins and wild fennel.
It’s easy to be distracted by the exceptional pasta choices, but dishes like bombette di Martina Franca – tender pork neck stuffed with caciocavallo cheese, rolled in smoked Puglican pancetta – and Parmigiana di Pesce Spada – deep fried layers of organic violet aubergine with swordfish, capers, pine nuts and tomato – are sensational.
Wine is important here, and strictly Italian, with the list separated into areas: North, South and Central Italy, plus orange wines, a low-intervention wine. Most come from small biodynamic and organic vineyards and there’s a blackboard with additional styles on offer by the glass.
The décor is simple, comfortable with plain wooden tables and chunky farmhouse chairs, fairy lights, a low ceiling and jauntily tiled counter with a glimpse into the small kitchen. The vibe is relaxed and attentive – a welcoming neighbourhood spot that has to turn away passers-by most nights.
Desserts are the essence of simplicity – an outstanding tiramisu, deconstructed Sicilian cannolo or a maybe a strawberry cremoso, zesty with the juice of fresh strawberries. Coffee, as you’d hope, is top class too, as is the informed and well-judged service.
