Glamorous and elegant, this fine dining restaurant opened with a flourish in 2018. Returning from a successful career in London to the space formerly occupied by Kevin Thornton’s eponymous restaurant, Tallaght man Andy McFadden brought years of experience cooking at the highest levels.
Glover’s Alley, named for the laneway that runs alongside the Fitzwilliam Hotel, is a beautiful room, completely unrecognisable from its former style. Tricked out in blush pink and jewel green with sparkling brass and mirrors, the Art Deco riff is both dramatic and stylish (though lunch guests may lament the now obscured views of St Stephen’s Green, opposite). The seats and banquettes are especially comfortable, and perfect for a lingering meal.
An effusive and polished welcome, together with attentive service, is a perfect match for some of Dublin's finest food.
Andy’s menus – lunch, dinner à la carte and tasting – represent the very best of Irish produce, which are proudly declared in print. Dishes feature luxury ingredients and a mix of classic and international influences. A snack of smoked cheddar dumplings with shredded ham hock and Pommery Mustard might be followed by smoked eel and piglet belly with apple and cucumber served with a bacon dashi tableside. Maybe you’ll choose a course of hake with curry, watercress and parsnip or move on to Brie de Meaux, crammed with freshly grated truffles.
Each dish is a tiny work of art, colourful, delicate, imaginative, all served on beautiful tableware and desserts especially are exquisite.
The wine list is vast, though not necessarily easy on the wallet, and the menus are pricey too, but the ambitious cooking is handled with flair so, together with excellent service and the setting, a meal here is a real experience.