Dark, clubby and comfortable, Glas’s fit-out eschews traditional vegetarian restaurant interiors, trading wholesome, earthy vibes for luxury, style and atmosphere. Cool music plays, there’s a lively buzz in the air and the cocktails flow freely from a smart little bar along one wall.
The menu champions seasonal vegetables, with plenty of vegan choices, and - while the inclusion of a vegan 'parmesan' in some dishes may go against the grain - Glas’s very welcome overall USP is avoiding 'copy cat' versions of regular dishes that are popular with omnivores (so no fear of 'bleeding burgers' here...)
Freshly made breads and dips make a good start and then there may be small dishes like tasty Sweetcorn and Jalapeno Fritters with Avocado and Lime, or a nicely seasoned White Truffle and Forest Mushroom Paté with good flavour and texture, that comes with crunchy walnut crackers and red onion jam,.
Follow perhaps with Barley Risotto ('orisotto'), a popular dish that works especially well with Jerusalem artichoke, in season - although it might be an idea to consider asking for starter portion because, just like a traditional rice risotto can do when served as a main course, it may feel too big even though it's tasty at the start. But if you're in the mood for pasta, a sophisticated dish like Celeriac agnolotti with pickled carrots and carrot-top pesto is as flavoursome as it is unusual, so it's sure to fit the bill nicely.
To finish, you could try the house dessert, Tropical Eton Mess - a deconstructed version, with shards of meringue - and, if you can linger, allow a little time to explore the wine list too.
Service can sometimes let down a kitchen that's working hard at doing something different at Glás - but on other days it's actually a special feature, so a little extra staff training might work wonders here.
And, with seasonal Irish produce taking centre stage with such verve at Glás, it's not surprising that this atmospheric destination earned a loyal following from the get-go.
