Little sister of Darren Free's highly popular Delahunts nearby, Frank’s is located in a much-loved former pork butchers shop on busy Camden Street.
Charmingly, the exterior has been preserved exactly as it was, down to the name above the door. But inside - bar a few reminders, such as the black and white tiled floor, which is echoed in graphic artwork on the walls and window glass - it has been changed utterly.
The walls are painted a beautiful verdant green with millennial pink trim, and the room is lined with wine bottles whose colourful labels are set off against the deep green.
A large communal table topped with a composite stone surface, also in a pale pink hue, takes up most of the floor space. This, the sole table in Frank’s, is surrounded by backless high stools, making for an unusual - and atmospheric - restaurant setting. A glass with cutlery and a set of small plates are placed in front of diners as they take a seat. You are asked to keep the same small plates and cutlery as each round of food arrives - this is explained as a way for the restaurant to save money, and these savings are passed on through the price of wines.
Chef David Bradshaw, formerly of Clanbrassil House and Potager, has a tiny kitchen area in which to magic up meals and works head down at one end of the large table, his meticulously prepared ingredients spread neatly in front of him. Customers can watch as each dish is artfully plated and then quickly whisked off by Frank’s efficient staff.
The short menu is deceptively simple, the dishes when they arrive are detailed and elegant. There are unusual pairings of ingredients (and wines) and everything tastes delicious - and a few of the dishes are changed each week, so there will always be something new for returning visitors.
The provenance of food is not listed but it is very seasonal (including some foraged ingredients) and the staff are informative when asked. The short wine list is also very well sourced. There is a mixture of natural, organic and more standard wines and the prices are extremely competitive, starting at about €4.50 a glass for wine and less for some of the fortified choices.
This is a walk-in restaurant, with no reservations, no email address and no phone, so it suits those in the mood to risk dropping by - and there is a neat metal ledge on the exterior, so waiting guests can stand and have a glass of wine while they wait for other diners to vacate the table inside.
There is a time limit of one and a half hours to encourage turnover, and the staff are extremely warm on arrival and eager to welcome those waiting. They provide you with water and wine as you wait, offer olives or smoked almonds to nibble on - and also a clipboard with the short menu, which is presented on a pink sheet of paper togther with the (very interesting) wine list, to read while you wait for a seat.
Although not ideal for larger groups - in fact even a party of four might find it a little difficult to chat and converse - Frank's is a delightful place for a couple of friends to visit on a casual evening out.
