When the bread is as light and fluffy as you could dream of and comes with cool, whipped ricotta you know you’re onto something extra special. Then come three ‘snacks’ to get your palate excited, maybe smoked cod roe on toast or blue cheese and apple on a sablé biscuit. Each morsel is like a preview of the main event, showcasing finesse and creativity and letting you know that this kitchen means business.
Chef John Wyer and his wife Sandy are the brains behind Forest Avenue, a cool, Scandi-style outpost in Dublin 4, named after the street in New York where Sandy grew up. She met Corkman John in Germany and between them the pair have worked in many fine dining kitchens, abroad and in Dublin.
Forest Avenue nails the zeitgeist with reclaimed tables, low-key décor, the odd antlered head on the wall, cutlery in leather pouches and, most significantly, clean, bold flavour combinations that zing with freshness and creativity. There’s nothing but an open pass separating diners from the kitchen; John cooks and while Sandy is a pastry chef, she’s now responsible for front-of-house.
Serving lunch and dinner, the evening tasting menu at €75 includes six delicious courses starting with earthy snacks and culminating in a wonderful dessert, such as russet apple pudding with gingerbread ice cream.
In between you’ll enjoy picture perfect dishes bursting with flavour, perhaps a dish of wild rabbit ragu with agnolotti of Parmesan or Sika deer with chanterelles and swede.
Service is attentive and friendly, there’s a good selection of wine, beer and house cocktails and upbeat tunes ensure the bright room of mismatched tables buzzes with vibrancy.
Come expecting a culinary adventure and you won’t be disappointed.
