A grown-up dining room with dramatic portraits (which will change throughout the year, as part of GalleryX), the mix of teal and grey velvet seats and warm wood make Sergey and Anna Letsko's Feast a cosy and welcoming space. High ceilings, large street-facing windows and well spaced tables make it ideal for date night, group get-togethers or business meals.
Originally opened in Dun Laoghaire in 2016, the suburb’s loss is the city centre’s gain, with Feast bringing its eclectic menu and sophisticated cooking to a wider audience. The globally-driven menu may confuse some, but it’s a formula that seems to work well, thanks to Laszlo Kamondi’s confident cooking.
Presented on dark earthenware the food looks dramatic and appealing. Winter menus feature comfort food, perhaps Ballinwillin venison with olives, sweet potato, comte and red port jus or a filling vegetarian squash potage with roasted pumpkin, butternut squash tortellini and coriander pesto.
Seafood is imaginatively treated, with dishes like an Indian inspired starter of grilled gambas with Mughal curry, crisp poppadum, salted cashew and pickled raisins original and delicious.
Service is warm, relaxed and welcoming and Feast’s drinks menu covers cocktails, a good mid-priced selection of wines and a decent mix of Irish craft beers and cider, as well as excellent Dublin-roasted Two Spots coffee.
The food is tasty and creative with many vibrant creations - and, in a world of hackneyed ingredients combinations, it’s nice to find somewhere taking risks, that, for the most part, pay off handsomely.