Georgina Campbell
Less
Just a stroll across from the Guildhall and close to the Derry city walls, El Tapas Grá is located in a central area that's always busy with tourists, locals and day trippers passing through - perfect for a casual restaurant that's open every day offering tapas from lunchtime through to the evening.
Opened in 2021, El Tapas Grá neatly combines the famous Spanish small plates (and ambience) with local Irish ingredients. Despite the challenges of the pandemic, the idea took on and this atmospheric place settled in well - since expandied upstairs to add 'Ancho', a Cocktail/MexicanTapas/Wine Lounge with spicier small plates, more seating and a few stools at the bar counter.
Tucked behind an understated frontage dressed with a sunshade awning, the main restaurant is a long room with dark stained wood panelling, banquettes, booths and green cushioned seating creating a very pleasant, restful space that fills up quickly, with street window seats at tghe front always the first to go. Very comfortable chairs are designed for relaxation and customers are amused by details like the hanging radiators that replace the heat from the southern sun... With super hospitable staff who have plenty of chatty small talk and good menu knowledge, this is a little Spanish heaven, offering multi-choice drinks with tapas to suit all tastes. The printed table mats double as menus and they are laid with quality paper napkins and sparkling cutlery - but no cruets, hinting at a kitchen that's sure they've got it right (and they have). The food is very good - fresh, local, seasonal, colourful and neatly dainty as befits the tapas style.
Sharing five or six plates is suggested and, served when ready by knowledgeable staff, it works very well. Some examples from an early summer menu should entice... There's Hot Cauliflower (nicely caramelised with a tad of honey); a refreshing Rainbow Beetroot Salad - cubes of coloured variants on a little ajo (garlic and bread purée), crisp green apple dice and edible flowers. Seafood Paella Bonbon is a moist orange-sized, breaded ball of flavoursome chopped shellfish and rice; with the depth of a good bisque, it's served on a pepper/ tomato mild relish with toasted nibbled almonds -excellent cooking, every element is delicious. Duo of lamb... another winner on flavour, yet so simple: a shredded base of braised lamb shoulder and a chunky well butchered cutlet that's moist and pink, dressed with a little cocktail mojito salad. Medallions of Monkfish, an understated looking plate: just cooked, well trimmed with Asparagus spears and a vibrant romesco purée.
Then you may be coaxed into having some 'afters' too ...a Santiago tart would be hard to resist - the homemade light almondy slice, served just warm with a good vanilla bean ice cream. Or maybe Baked cheesecake...well caramelised in the oven, light and creamy with dark cherries and their syrup. Then round it all off, perhaps, with mild double espresso.
The wine list is mostly Spanish, with a house selection available by the glass, and a much-feted cocktail list, as well as a great choice from a full bar and a light Madril lager on draught.
With its genuine welcome and professional service, very accomplished cooking, outstanding flavours and good value, it's east to see why El Tapas Grá so soon became a real contender on the Derry food scene. A casual dry sherry and a nibble here could be quite the sociable experience for many...
