D'Olier Street

In a distinctive Victorian building on the College Green corner of D'Olier Street, the eponymous fine dining restaurant opened in late 2022. A collaboration between Anthony Smith, owner of the much-loved Mr Fox on Parnell Square, Australian Executive Chef James Moore and James's American wife, Jane Frye, who is GM, Anthony and James first worked together at One Pico in Dublin for 6 years.

The chefs subsequently worked together at some of New York's top restaurants over several years, honing their skills before parting ways before coming together to open D'Olier Street in late 2022. A beautifully designed room with high ceilings, arched leaded windows, ornate stucco, parquet floors and contemporary furniture - all beautifully complemented by specially created artwork by Dublin artist Casey Walshe - it's a perfect mirror for the refined and sophisticated cooking on offer.

James is a low-key chef who lets his imaginative food do the talking. From behind a sleek open plan kitchen this master of flavours expertly balances each of his dishes with refined textures. Serving a 13-course tasting menu, it's a surprise menu with the opportunity to order a five-glass wine pairing with it.

Guests can dine at the counter on stools to enjoy the theatre of the cooking and the handsome feature bar, but the dining tables and banquettes are comfy and well spaced out for intimate dining. Despite the large room and high ceiling, acoustics are very good in the restaurant. Each dish is plated up exquisitely on minimalist tableware, perhaps a matt black plate or simple wooden bowl.

The menu has evolved since opening and, despite a price hike, it still represents value for the quality and brilliance of the food, and wines curated by Restaurant Manager, Scott White.

The friendly international staff are really well trained and very attentive, especially at the start before settling into their groove. Service is warm, engaged and interested. Over the 13-course meal each of the chefs will bring a dish to your table, talking you through the ingredients. Despite the serious food it's a relaxed experience and the tableside interaction is fun.

Snacks start the meal, perhaps French toast with mimolette custard, a cured hamachi tart with smoked eel foam, and a glistening lollipop of rabbit char siu with pickled daikon.

A signature foie gras custard is just pure class, with a thin pineapple gel and perfect fluffy English muffins. A clever and original dish like squid noodles topped with tiny cubes of salted swede and vibrant dashi swirled with wild garlic will remind you of the care that has gone into this well crafted menu.

The bread course is a knockout, their signature seeded pretzel with creamy smoked Gubbeen butter is imaginatively elevated with pickled red onion and chives. Mains might feature pan-seared Kilmore quay cod followed by 20-day dry aged roast beef with bone marrow, celeriac and a moreish dish of beef cheek ragu.

Pre-desserts show off the playful skills of Executive pastry chef Mina Pizarro and her team, each unexpected combination delicious and made with care.. Think Blood orange curd with thyme sorbet, dark chocolate with sweet potato, yuzu with miso choux bun and you'll understand how exciting, original and excellent D'Olier Street is.

The vegetarian tasting menu is just as impressive, showing a level of care and pride that stretches to the extensive and imaginative non-alcoholic beverages offering too. At the end of your meal guests receive a copy of the menu to take home. Every little detail is pitch perfect and beautifully considered in this exciting fine dining enterprise.