Craft is chef Phil Yeung's first restaurant as owner, having been head chef at Town Bar & Grill and Bang, and it's a happy addition to the range of eating options in Dublin 6W.
A smart but low-key exterior sets the tone and the simple, comfortable furniture includes a few seats at the bar - just the setting for casual fine-dining and Craft serves lunch, dinner and brunch.
The à la carte dinner menu offers starters, mains and desserts. Artichoke velouté comes with confit duck and pear while cured sea trout is accompanied by apple, dill and kohlrabi.
Main courses marry big, rustic flavours with elegant but unfussy presentation, and ingredients are seasonal and mainly Irish. These may include Wicklow pheasant with chanterelles, parsnip and quince or char-grilled aged ribeye with leek, salsify and onion ketchup.
Desserts are simple yet considered, perhaps spiced pumpkin cake with Valrhona white chocolate and Jameson raisins and the cheese offering is a single Irish cheese – this may be a less obvious choice than in many restaurants, such as one of Tipperary’s success stories – Cooldaniel, an unpasteurised blue, stilton-style soft cheese.
The floor staff are excellent – professional and friendly - and, like the food (notably the early 'Neighbourhood' dinner menu), the short wine list offers value.
While billed as a neighbourhood restaurant, Phil Yeung's food is accomplished enough to draw in the punters from further afield.
