As an example of a farming family who met the challenges of the pandemic with panache, the Calveys of Achill Island would take some beating - and their superb Salt-Marsh Lamb (the coveted ‘agneau de pré-salé’) was even more widely enjoyed, thanks to the way they tweaked an already successful multi-generational enterprise to meet the new market demands.
The Calveys have been sheep farmers on Achill Island for over a century and a half, always including several generations of the family working together - which has been the secret of their success in many ways, not least in adjusting to doing business differently during a pandemic.
The most famous product, the late season Calvey’s of Achill Salt Marsh Lamb, has a unique terroir-related flavour and texture which is similar to mountain lamb from other coastal areas, but with a special extra ingredient contributed by their specific location. Born in mid-summer, much later than lowland lambs, their Mayo Blackface Mountain Lambs graze salt marsh plants and herbs in the rare ‘machair’ habitat of the sandy seaside banks at Keel - creating what the Calveys evocatively describe as its “heather-sweetened, seaside-seasoned taste”.
But, while crucial, it is not just the habitat that makes this product special. The Calveys’ way of doing things is the complete opposite of most mainstream farming operations, particularly meat producers. The main difference is that they have control of every stage of the production process and, critically, they have an on-site abattoir so - unlike most animals - their lambs do not have the stress of travelling to a slaughterhouse but remain on their own territory and in the care of familiar people to the end. Calvey’s abattoir is the last on an island that once had two dozen, so the family is very conscious of its importance and determined to keep it going.
The same hands-on care applies to the butchery at Calvey’s On-Farm Abattoir Butchers, and the wonderful meats sold at their recently upgraded and relaunched farm shop at Keel - which also sells other Irish artisan products, as well as their own meats and hampers - and an excellent online service, which offers everything from sausages and burgers to whole carcasses for nationwide delivery.
Unusually, they also sell hogget (lamb over one year old) and mutton (over two years), both of which are excellent products that are not widely available.
