MOVED TO: Bites by Kwanghi, 82 Sir John Rogerson's Quay, Grand Canal Dock, Dublin D02 YY86
TEL: 089 4274176
Jauntily styled, like a bustling Hong Kong street market, Bowls is a modern Asian noodle and dim sum joint, that punches above its weight. Created by Hong Kong-born and Donegal-raised Kwanghi Chan – known from TV, his Chan Chan sauces and time spent in the kitchens of Chapter One and The Cliff House – this fun, casual spot feels fresher and more accessible than many of the neighbouring Asian spots along Parnell Street.
Signature bowls are the draw, listed on a blackboard, but there’s plenty more options (including Build your Own) and more detail, in the printed menus on the tables. Come to the counter to order and you’ll spy two Big Green Eggs, charcoal barbecue smokers, that are used to deliver wonderful smoky hits to everything from meat to vegetables.
Bowls are served in ruby red earthenware, deep and wide, with a choice of steamed jasmine or brown rice or noodles. Delicious and filling, combinations include roasted aubergine, featuring smoky chunks of silken aubergine, pickled daikon, white radish and broccoli, fermented bean curd greens, miso street sauce, black garlic, and oyster sauce. Charred Hong Kong 5 spice pulled beef brisket with fermented Korean style cabbage, baby kale, pickled vegetables, scallions, coriander and roasted miso sweetcorn. Pot stickers, traditional pork and chive dumplings, come with a souped-up soy sauce, and you can choose from delicious sides like wakame seaweed with sesame oil and Korean kimchi. Dishes taste fresh, rich and delicious.
Open six days a week from 8am, there’s a breakfast menu too, including quality 3FE coffee and traditional offerings like chicken and scallion rice porridge alongside more conventional avocado toast. The drinks menu is limited to Vita lemon tea from Hong Kong, Coke, bottled water and flavoured teas. The food is thoughtfully prepared and offers good value, with custom bowls cheaper than the signatures.
For dessert, or morning coffee, you must leave room for Bowls’ exceptional Pasteis de Nata – Macau-style custard tarts, created using a recipe from Hong Kong’s neighbour and former Portuguese colony. The creamy Portuguese classics are worth the visit alone!
