Facing the Market Bar on Fade Street, this casual dining venture by Dylan McGrath is in an 8,000 square foot listed building – and, with exposed ducts, walls stripped back to the redbrick, and reclaimed wooden floors, it feels very New York loft.
There are smart wooden tables and high stools and seats are comfortably upholstered in warm fudge coloured leather. The open kitchen of the gastro bar runs along the centre of the room, dividing it from the more formal restaurant, and a bar with beer on draught shimmers at the far end of the room.
This Dublin restaurants a place to see and be seen and, with celebrities a-plenty and noise levels definitely at the social end of the scale, it is one of Dublin’s buzziest restaurants – and run with military precision.
An army of black clad chefs work in the open kitchen, and Dylan or his sous chef stand at the pass with a headpiece to manage the incoming orders. Bar stools at the counter allow diners to get a closer look at the action, high communal tables with horse vault stools run down the middle, and along the wall are smaller more intimate tables.
Many regulars head here especially for The Woodfired Menu, with its flavour-packed snacks and appetisers, unusual sourdough pizzas - and, of course, the superb meats that are a feature of all of the Dylan McGrath restaurants. Sharing plates include Chateaubriand and Tomahawk steaks, priced per 100g, and name checked suppliers include John Stone (Longford), Gilligans Farm (Roscommon) and Pat McLoughlin craft butchers.
Although many of the ingredients are Irish, influences are far ranging and the cooking is clever, with many upbeat variations on classic favourites - and an interesting vegetarian amd vegan section named simply by the main ingredient (Cucumber, Caulifower, Beetroot etc), belying the multi-layered complexity of the contrasting textures and delicious flavours.
The Restaurant - a late week evening dining destination (Thu-Sat 5-10pm) - is a more classical experience, with white clothed tables and a more restrained approach. But the philosophy is the same and respected suppliers like Goatsbridge Trout (Kilkenny), Jane Russell (black pudding, gourmet sausages) and the superb meats that feature in all of the Dylan McGrath restaurants are the backbone of the experience - although, despite Dylan McGrath's obvious love and respect for top quality meats, the vegan and vegetarian dishes also sing.
Equally interesting desserts and cheeses incude a Baked rosemary scented camembert to share, and have wine suggestions for pairing as well as a dessert cocktail menu, sweet wines and fortified wines/liqueurs.
The well chosen main wine list is impressive, with bottles starting reasonably from under €30 and many wines available by the glass or bottle. There is also a comprehensive range of cocktails, as well as an extensive beer list (including gluten free), with plenty of excellent craft beers and spirits from Ireland, so it is equally pleasant to have a drink here as it is to dine.
Slick and professional service by well-informed and engaged staff adds to the enjoyment and, although it’s a place where you could have a quick meal, there is no pressure to turn over tables - and return visits are highly likely as diners will be hungry to try more dishes from this exciting chef’s menu.
A great destination on the vibrant Dublin dining scene.
