JP McMahon and Drigin Gaffey opened Aniar in 2011. It immediately became the most talked about restaurant in Galway, and was soon rewarded with international as well as Irish acclaim. Since then it has flown a flag for Galway’s reputation as a food destination by being unwavering in its commitment to showcasing local food.
In 2024, Aniar was re-launched as Aniar 2.0. A vividly re-imagined setting which, with the help of architect Aidan Conway of Marmar Architects and a host of artisans and artists to realise JP's vision, aims to “bring the outside in’’ and in which a 24-course small plates menu is the canvas for his picture of Irish food.
Fine dining is an extremely tough gig to pull off and many would now agree that it is not a sustainable business proposition. Compound this by only offering a twenty four course ‘small bites’ tasting menu and you would be seen as an extremely high risk taker. JP McMahon is such a risk taker - and so we get to enjoy an experience in Galway which would otherwise not exist.
Soon after opening time, the small but evocative room of eight tables will be at capacity with about two dozen, mainly overseas, guests - and probably re-booked for a late sitting at 9pm. The tables being close together, you can choose to get to know your neighbour, which can be rewarding.
This is not ‘going out to eat'; it is a going out to experience an event. This is what JP is putting on for us in Aniar 2.0. His love of art, poetry, story telling and deep respect for the provenance of food is portrayed in this experience. It begins with the booking, when one is asked not only whether one has any special requirements or food allergies, but also whether you have an Irish food memory - information that will inform the experience that is created for you. Arrival is just a straight walk in off the street into the room where you are greeted and seated. The three and a half hour show begins with a relaxed introduction of what to expect and what aperitif you might wish to begin with.
The menu - which is unseen until departure - is described as a twenty four course menu. However it is not actually twenty four separate courses, but rather twenty four items/tastes/dishes which are presented over the course of the evening. Some items are served in clusters of three and the final five ‘courses’ are actually five different petit fours, or candies - and the 24th is a biscuit to take home.The first items to arrive are three ‘snacks’ which set the tone and create a sense of anticipation.before the wine service begins. A mini cornet of lobster and roe, a mushroom and seaweed broth and a Dooncastle oyster, for example. Indicative of what lies ahead, they give a sense of place and settle guests in. No detail is without meaning at Aniar and it is evident that presentation is of paramount importance. A great deal of thought goes into how each item is presented, with individual tuiles and garnishes created for every dish, each presented with its own style, on beautiful pottery/ceramics, or in wooden enclosures. The sole function of one, for example, is to hold perfectly a serving of two sumptuous Doonbeg oysters.
The drinks offering is worthy of the anticipated experience. One may decide to have a juice pairing, Irish drinks pairing, a classic or a prestige wine pairing to suit the menu being served. Or, you may opt to choose a bottle from an extensive, deliberately obscure, list of wines presented to you on a tablet. It is a superb listing demonstrating effort.
The chefs and front of house team merge into one. The chefs deliver and explain each dish. You get to meet everyone looking after you. The sommelier is on cue with the wine pairing and you sit back and enjoy the journey. Because it is a journey; tastes and descriptions of purveyors and Irish ingredients. ‘Are we there yet’ becomes tempting at one point, but it is then that one must remind oneself why we are here. This is an event experience - relax, enjoy and let it perform.
On leaving, diners are given the menu, encased in an illustrative map of Ireland designed by Edel McMahon - it marks the locations of the produce that has been enjoyed and makes a meaningful souvenir.
Aniar 2.0 is a lovely performance, albeit a pricey one. But the price of art is entirely relative, and its value lies in the eye of the beholder.
