Chef Seamus O'Connell's long anticipated move from Cork to Killarney in summer 2019 brought a frisson of culinary excitement to the Kerry town. Given his reputation for doing things differently at Cork's long-established Ivory Tower, there was every reason to expect that Seamus O'Connell would shake things up a bit with the opening of his new restaurant, Malarkey - as indeed he has done.
Now in the premises previously occupied by the popular Chapter 40, this quirkily imaginative chef is delighting a new audience with his trademark marriage of traditional Irish and more exotic influences - and 'the hints of mischief and twists of the unexpected' that set his food apart have made the move very comfortably.
Set over two floors, with the main dining space and bar on the lower level, it's an inviting restaurant with well spaced tables and comfortable chairs that (along with the warm welcome extended promptly on arrival) bode well for a relaxing evening.
And it's all about the food here. A 3-course dinner menu, two tasting menus, an à la carte - and sometimes even a 'Garden Malarkey' menu, for times when the weather encourages dining outside on the grass - offer an eclectic range of foods and styles, but with a distinctly Irish flavour. While provenance is not specifically detailed, there's a sense of place in references like “chicken reared nearby”, Kerry Lamb, Dingle Oysters, Sneem sausages - and in dishes like Irish stew, boxty (offered in four versions) and crubeens.
Japanese influences have always been part of the mix and that usually means sushi - but it can also mean less predictable dishes, such as Seared Wagyu steak teriyaki with pineapple - and who's up for nettle and knotweed soup? Yes, most of us probably do know that Japanese knotweed is edible, but it's hardly a familiar Item on Irish menus as yet.
And then there's the Malarkey sushi roll, with Sneem sausage, Tayto crisps, pickle and cabbage. The Crubeens, with smoky onion poitín purée, are full of flavour, and well worth a try - and so is the Lobster and Conger Hot Dog with purple potato and streaky salad. There's plenty of simpler stuff too of course like the Dingle Bay oysters, served naked. Irish Stew features across the menus too (as a big plate/'main') and is really excellent, as is the Hay Smoked Rack of Kerry Lamb.
Desserts are also intriguing. How many people could turn down a Blancmange of strawberries and mint, from an 800 year old recipe? And then there's the toffee apple and smoked treacle ice cream - if it's on the menu, just go for it!
Original and intriguing, this is the place in Killarney for the culturally curious diner.
