A new team has instilled fresh life into this attractive restaurant In the upper part of Westport town, since chef Shteryo Yurukov and front of house partner Eva Ivanova took on the ownership in 2013 - they are both from Bulgaria but have worked in the west of Ireland for over 12 years, most recently in the very successful An Port Mor.
Sage was formerly noted for its authentic Italian cooking and the present team continue to offer a few of the pasta dishes that were popular with regular diners, but - not surprisingly, given Shteryo’s experience in Irish kitchens - the focus is now on seafood and contemporary Irish cooking.
The familiar cream and light green décor in this comfortable restaurant is as pleasing as ever and, although the reception area has unfortunately not been retained, the open kitchen still allows customers to view a busy kitchen team at work.
The welcome is warm, and service both friendly and efficient - the specials board is explained when menus are presented (along with good home-made bread and water); it’s good to see local foods highlighted, with producers and suppliers credited on the menu - including fish from Achill, beef and lamb from Down Meats in Ballyhaunis, salads from Joe Kelly, Andarl Farm pork and poultry from The Friendly Farmer at Athenry.
Starters like Clew Bay scallops, Jerry Hassett’s smoked salmon and Killary mussels may be hard to choose from but whatever you decide on it should be a winner – Galway organic goats cheesecake and mousse with cantaloupe melon jelly and candied walnuts is another delicious option as is ham hock, black pudding and apricot terrine with beetroot and plum chutney and green tomato tempura.
Shteryo’s cooking is very good and main courses allow him to flex his culinary muscles in creative dishes which are quietly impressive. Blackboard specials might include extra fish dishes - oven-baked black sole on the bone, perhaps, and grilled seatrout garnished with seared queen scallops - in addition to other fish and seafood, including an interesting dish of West coast monkfish and pork belly, served with curried lentils bonbon, celeriac and tarragon mustard.
Gressingham duck Maigret with potato terrine, carrot and apricot puree and red wine orange sauce and Greek style free range chicken breast marinated in yogurt, turmeric , lemon, honey, parsley cream and pak choi are two excellent meat choices.
Homemade desserts at around €6.50 are excellent (warm orange and vanilla baklava with vanilla ice cream; white chocolate and raspberry mousse with hazelnut cookie; chocolate and almond semi-freddo.) and there’s selection of Irish cheeses (€8.90) served, unusually, with red pepper mustard seed chutney and parmesan puff sticks - a nice savoury plate to share, perhaps.
A separate vegetarian menu is also available with a choice of 3 starters and five mains.
A well-chosen list of about two dozen wines is also fairly priced, mostly around the €30-€35 mark.
With great service and excellent food served in a lovely ambience, dinner here should be very enjoyable - and good value for top-class Irish produce too, probably working out at under €85 for two with wine. All of which should auger well for this pleasing restaurant.
