Georgina Campbell
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A pleasing new venture by owners Paul Foley and Chef Brian Walsh of Pigeon House fame, the aptly-named Caladh - 'a landing place' in Irish - is a welcoming neighbourhood restaurant featuring top-quality Irish ingredients, creatively prepared.
Strolling into the reinvented ground floor of this historic Victorian house on Greystones’ busy main street, you’ll find a softly lit modern space with experienced and exceptionally hospitable staff at the helm. From pre-starter nibbles right through to the elegant desserts, the menu has a clear focus on quality Irish produce done right: food at Caladh is thoughtful and creative, but far from pretentious. Dishes are designed to complement and shine a spotlight on outstanding central components, such as Peter Hannon’s beef and lamb, Flaggy Shore oysters, Kilkeel crab and Andarl Farm Velvet Pork, all elegantly plated and presented with a mindful balance of flavours and textures.
Caladh quickly established itself as a special dining destination, but you can also pop into this atmospheric spot in the early evening for a drink or two at the bar, along with some nibbles: think crispy ‘nduja croquettes with wild garlic mayo, fresh focaccia with herb butter or native oysters. But, as the space is so welcoming and the food so good, you might find yourself drawn to stay longer and experience the full à la carte...
While the menu changes regularly, highlights might typically include an excellent steak tartare (showcasing Peter Hannon’s wonderful beef), with tiny pearl onion halves filled with mayo and perched delicately on top, and sweet scallops that are matched with rich black pudding and creatively offset with tart, in-season rhubarb.
Vegetarians and vegans may need to put in some special requests, but the choice is otherwise balanced and a couple of the main courses are designed to share between two people - a thoroughly enjoyable monkfish on the bone, for example, surrounded by mussels, chorizo, samphire and celeriac in a creamy, spicy sauce, and accompanied by an unusual side of crème fraîche, caper and dill potato salad. A one-page wine list would benefit from some tasting notes but is reasonably priced for this standard of restaurant and avoids 'the usual suspects' at the lower end - an entry level Picpoul de Pinet works well with the monkfish sharing dish, for example, and there are four wines available by the glass. It would be hard to pass on the elegant desserts - a rich chocolate marquise, for example, may come with tart slices of blood orange and a smooth blood orange sorbet, along with a savoury sesame tuile. Simply superb.
With a focus on excellent produce and provenance, great attention to detail, and floor staff with the perfect combination of warmth and expertise, Caladh promises to be a long-term favourite in this popular seaside town.
