Carlow is one of Ireland’s loveliest counties yet - surprisingly, considering its convenience to the capital - perhaps also one of the most under the radar. But that may be a plus for visitors, who will find an idyllically lush and unspoilt place with pretty villages (none more so than Borris) and lovely river scenes, including Clashganny Lock - its stunningly beautiful rural setting is best seen from a roadside vantage point nearby. Once seen never forgotten, it’s easy to understand why this is one of Ireland’s most famous views...
And since 2014 Robert and Karen White’s impressive restaurant, just a hundred yards from the lock, has provided yet another reason to visit this beauty spot as soon as possible.
It’s down a narrow road (signed from the ‘main’ road) and, although it may look a little bare at first off season, the fine old mid-19th century granite mill house is set in woodland that was planted when the house was built.
Robert is the chef (previously at Monart spa, nearby at Enniscorthy, always known for its cuisine) and Karen, who has a hotel background, is warmly hospitable and very comfortable managing her front of house team. Two smartly furnished dining rooms flank the front door and, as you enter, you’ll notice that the kitchen door is open at the end of the hall, so you can see Robert cooking - a welcoming touch. Looking out onto mature trees, the dining rooms offer art pieces for sale on the walls and, with high backed chairs, good glassware and promptly served iced water and bread, the scene is set for a special - but accessibly priced - outing. There’s also a comfortable reception room where you can enjoy an aperitif (something from their cocktail list perhaps), while choosing from the menu.
With about half a dozen dishes to choose from on each course, the dinner menu offers something for everyone. Wisely, most options are upbeat renditions of popular dishes - hero starters like Crispy spiced beef salad with mango, peanuts, beansprouts with soy and sesame dressing, for example (an unusual combination with well judged flavours, appealingly served in an open crisp Filo pastry case), or light and neatly presented Crisp Thai Style Fishcake with pineapple and red pepper salsa, chili and lime mayonnaise.
Popular mains might include perfectly cooked Roast stuffed Chicken Balontine with confit chicken and a light wild mushroom risotto and parmesan tuile, andr Braised Lamb Shank Parcel with champ potatoes, glazed carrot, garlic and thyme jus - encased in filo pastry and tender after long slow cooking and accompanied by its own vegetables, this dish is a good call. And, of course, there’s the good steak that is de rigeur in Irish restaurants - in this case a classy version of the country classic, comprising a Chargrilled 8oz ribeye8oz Rib-Eye Steak with garlic mushroom, red onion marmalade, peppercorn sauce. There’s always a fish choice too, of course, and an interesting vegetarian starter and main course option.
But do save room for the finale (a difficult choice of five desserts or cheese), as treats like Wexford strawberry Iced parfait with crisp meringue, fresh cream and strawberry gel are always sure to please - and, on a recent visit, a sensational Loganberry Crème Brulée with vanilla ice cream and crisp brandy snap stole the show. Made with loganberries that grow wild outside the house, this will be one of the best combinations of this very popular dish that you are likely to find anywhere
The drinks offering is very good - the wine list is not huge (9 whites, 11 reds, 2 sparkling, 1 dessert) but it is very well laid out, with wines categorised as fruity/ crisp and fresh or ripe and round, and has excellent tasting notes. And, as they use the Vacu-Vin system, all of their wines are offered by the glass. There's also a range of beers and ciders (including some on draught, and some non-alcoholic) and a comprehensive list of Classic and non-alcoholic cocktails, plus liqueur coffees and other after dinner drinks.
With Robert’s excellent cooking, Karen’s warmly professional supervision of the dining rooms and the wonderful setting, Clashganny House offers an accessible treat for discerning diners - and its reputation as a key destination, for the lucky locals and visitors to the area, is well earned.
