Behind a classic Georgian frontage on the main street of one of Northern Ireland's prettiest traditional villages lies a thoroughly modern - and surprisingly large - restaurant.
A first restaurant for returning natives, the renowned chef Chris McGowan and his wife Davina, the arrival of this talented duo brought a real frisson of excitement to the Northern Ireland restaurant scene when they opened just before Christmas in 2015.
Described as 'Richard Corrigan's right hand man', McGowan spent twelve years working with the great Meath man and also has an unusually high public profile, thanks to his appearances on the Great British Menu. So the stars were certainly favourably aligned for a restaurant opening - and, sure enough, Wine & Brine was received with immediate critical acclaim - and, more importantly, perhaps, it's hitting the spot with local diners too.
The premises, which had been lying empty for several years, was gutted before reopening, and the interior - which is very open and quite bare, with a semi-open kitchen and a lot of hard surfaces to ramp up the decibels - may not be to everyone's taste, but that's not going to keep the punters away as long as the food (and the value) is as good as it is.
Although suppliers are not detailed, showcasing local seasonal produce is the name of the game here - most notably, as the name of the restaurant suggests, in the traditional pickled, brined and fermented foods that are currently enjoying a strong revival on modern menus.
McGowan's stunning Great British Menu dish, Tongue and Cheek Pie, will be high on the wish list for many diners - and it may well be on the menu. But there are plenty of other temptations, beginning with snacks like scratchings with smoked paprika or salt cod with parsley and garlic, to enjoy with an aperitif. There are flavoursome soups (smoked haddock with potato & mature cheddar, perhaps), and classic starters such as pressed country terrine with celeriac remoulade and pear jelly, or prawn cocktail. And then there's an unusually diverse range of main courses, built around an appealing foundation of beef (rib eye, sirloin, fillet) cooked on the bone. Game features in season (a starter of pheasant schnitzel with fermented cabbage and walnut coleslaw, for example) and there are interesting vegetarian choices, such as a winter dish of salt baked turnip 'tatin' with curd and herb dressing.
Big flavours, innovative combinations and inspired accompaniments characterise the cooking, which has all the finesse that would be expected of a chef of this calibre - and there are details that give great pleasure, such as the seaweed butter that comes with the Comber potatoes...
For many diners the highlight is still to come however, and this is a place where you may need to plan your meal in order to enjoy the finale. And, if the simply named 'tea infused lime yoghurt, blood orange' is on the menu, don't miss it: wonderful Clandeboye Estate yoghurt, layered up with tea-infused jelly and blood orange segments, then a little granola for crunch, it's a deliciously refreshing and perfectly balanced way to end a richly flavoursome meal.
An interesting drinks list includes craft beers and ciders - and here, as for everything on offer, knowledgeable and engaging staff are happy to advise.
Wine & Brine is a great asset to this charming village, and it's not hard to see why it enjoyed immediate success: it's fine dining with a casual vibe, there's huge enthusiasm for everything they do here, and the prices are for the most part very reasonable - with Sunday lunch, in particular, a real snip.
