Niall McKenna's James St. has developed from two of the best loved Belfast restaurants the fine dining destination restaurant James Street South and its less formal sister, The Bar and Grill at James St.
Owned since 2003 by one of Northern Ireland's most highly respected chefs, Niall McKenna, and his wife Joanne, the restaurant team at James St. is headed up by Paul McGovern as Restaurant Manager and Executive Chef Ryan Stringer, formerly of Ely in Dublin, who joined the team in January 2022.
Housed in an attractive old redbrick linen mill, the atmosphere is relaxed and informal during the week and lively and fun at the weekends. Ryan Stringer, who was with the Ely Wine Group for years, has now taken over the kitchen in James St. and is clearly having fun with hyper local ingredients.
Some classic dishes are firmly established on the menu and the crab and chilli linguine, crispy squid and steaks are here to stay. The menu is a well-researched crowd pleaser with a couple of surprising combinations. The snacks feature breads (champ and Guinness served with Abernathy butter) and olives (marinated) but also pickled watermelon rind which is sure to help start a conversation at the table. The miso sour cream on the cured salmon starter is a delight of savoury freshness and the white onion and crème fraiche soup with thyme oil is both comforting and uplifting.
The charcoal grill still plays centre stage, cooking not just some of the best steaks and prime cuts Northern Ireland has to offer but also fresh whole fish, pork and vegetables. The juniper smoked hispi cabbage which comes with the duck is some of the best cooked cabbage you are ever likely to have in a restaurant.
The dessert menu offers a choice of six dishes, each more interesting than the last. If you’re after a classic you can opt for a vanilla ice cream and madeleine or chocolate tart with Drogheda sea salt ice cream. If you prefer something a bit lighter the passion fruit panna cotta or watermelon jelly with lemon and thyme sorbet might appeal. Finally, if desserts aren’t your thing, the cheese plate offers three local cheeses chosen each week by Ryan from Mike’s Fancy Cheese shop - Mike being Mike Thomson, of Young Buck fame.
The food suppliers list is a joy to read and the great majority of ingredients come from the island of Ireland and are produced artisanally. It is great to see that this care and attention to detail splashes onto the drinks list too. Locally produced beer, cider and gins take pride of place on the drinks menu and, with a larger, more established bar area now, a wide range of wines is offered alongside a considered spirit list and an extensive whiskey offering.
Last but not least, Paul and his team provide you with a seamless service. They interact with their guests warmly and with great care and it shows as everyone seems to be enjoying themselves greatly.
The revamped James St. and its excellent and deservedly popular sister restaurant, Hadskis, offer locals and visitors a great dining experience in Belfast city centre.
