When the late Youen Jacob acquired the pub next door to his long-established restaurant Chez Youen in 2004, this new venture turned out to be the beginning of something much bigger that would transform the centre of Baltimore.
Youen and his family linked the former Baltimore Bay Guesthouse at the top of the square and The Waterfront pub to create The Waterfront Hotel, now run by Youen's son, also Youen, and his wife Kate. Comprising a pub (Jacob’s Bar), two restaurants (The Lookout Restaurant on the first floor, where some of the long-established Chez Youen dishes are still on the menu; and La Jolie Brise Pizza & Grill, on the square) and some fine newer rooms in addition to the original ones in the previous Baltimore Guest House.This stylish development is marked by the late Youen Jacob’s lifelong commitment to quality - the new building doesn’t merely fit into the square, it completes it.
The cheerful continental-style café La Jolie Brise Pizza & Grill (see entry; pizza made in the authentic Italian way, also fresh fish and shellfish – no pasta) still spills out on to the pavement and is also accessible from The Waterfront - where Jacob's Bar is similarly designed to spill out onto the square, emphasising the conviviality of this little town. Inside it is bright and airy, but with an open fire for chilly days and a stage at the back, which is used for the many musical events that are held here.
The stylish guest rooms are extremely spacious and have lovely bathrooms – and even the rooms at the back have some very special features that will make them at least as desirable as those with a view.
This may have seemed very like a Jacob takeover of Baltimore but it was well received locally and, for the visitor, the town has been the better for it.
The Lookout (Breakfast is served here, but not opening for dinner until further notice)
Accessed through the hotel or by a separate staircase up from the street, this aptly named first floor restaurant above Jacob’s Bar has huge windows allowing a panoramic view of Baltimore Bay and the islands.
The great expanse of glass, a polished stone floor and minimalist table settings create a contemporary tone (although the hard surfaces can also make this a noisy room), while features such as the traditional French granite fireplace are reminiscent of the original Chez Youen Seafood Restaurant.
The menu reflects this, offering a combination of modern dishes and some of the great Breton dishes that Youen Snr brought to Baltimore in the 1970s, notably the famous Seafood Platter, a simple yet stunning arrangement of cascading seafood in the shell.
As always with the Jacobs, the food style is simple and fresh, and the cooking is good. It's also very good value, which is particularly pleasing. Fish is the speciality, of course, but menus also offer a wide range of meats, poultry and vegetarian options, so non-fish eaters will be very happy here too.
A short all-French wine list makes up in interest anything it may lack in length, and offers plenty of choice at reasonable prices.The Lookout also has its own bar where you can have a drink before dinner if you wish.
