Since 1997, discerning diners from all over Ireland (and beyond) have been making a beeline for Paul and Maire Flynn's stylish contemporary restaurant in Dungarvan It was a great asset to the town from the outset and, since Paul's television work has made him a household name, both the restaurant and cookery have become very popular destinations for the wider public.
The restaurant was once a leather warehouse but the design treatment is personal and contemporary, making an ideal setting for Paul's strong modern Irish cooking - and although it has recently been given a lovely fresh makeover, the tannery theme is still echoed throughout the light, clean-lined interior, creating a pleasingly historic atmosphere in a modern setting.
Arriving guests can see Paul, or Head Chef Damien Derwin, and the team at work in the open kitchen on their way upstairs to the high-ceilinged first-floor dining area, which is bright and welcoming, with bold wallpaper and crisp white linen softening the ambience (and improving the acoustics); together with dramatic paintings, smart, simple table settings and fresh flowers, the scene is set for a memorably pleasurable experience.
Menus are wonderfully simple yet, paradoxically, the food tastes very exciting; while inspired to some extent by global trends and regional cooking, particularly of the Mediterranean countries, menus have a strongly Irish feeling and are based mainly on local ingredients, which Paul supports avidly and sources with care - notably local seafood of course, also meats including pork and bacon supplied by trusted local butchers.
As viewers of Paul’s television series will expect, simplicity is of the essence here, and there are no amuse bouches; what is certain to be an outstanding meal cuts straight to the chase with superb starters. Try Tannery classics, such as the gorgeous Crab cème brulee, with pickled cucumber and Cornerstone toast, or Chicken and duck liver parfait with apple jelly and sourdough toast - deliciously simple dishes that are worth travelling for.
A main course that illustrates the skill of this exceptional chef is Seafood mixed grill, samphire, trout roe beurre blanc - simple but perfectly cooked and deeply-flavoured, it is another triumph of a dish.
Simple accompaniments are equally special and even hardened food critics are continually surprised by Paul Flynn's cooking which, as one fellow chef put it, "makes dishes which one thought one knew taste as if one was eating them for the first time". Presentation is simple too, and all the better for being plain - not too much height, and not too many useless drops about the plate.
An Irish cheese platter is always a highlight, and the dessert menu offers plenty of treats - but here the maverick genius may be at work, and you could well find novelty alongside the more predictable chocolate confections.
Paul also offers a Chef's Table, which would be a special treat for a group of 14-30 food lovers to enjoy together.
Giving good value has always been a notable feature of The Tannery: the à la carte is very fairly priced for food of this quality, but the lunch and Early Evening set menus (changed daily) are outstandingly good value.
Attentive and efficient service, an interesting and kindly-priced wine list (which offers lots of cheaper choices for this style of restaurant, also a welcome page of half bottles) and, above all, exceptional cooking by Pau and his team, make for memorable meals at this stunning restaurant.
Wine Bar:
A atmospheric evening hideaway, The Tannery Wine Bar is a relatively recent addtion, offering 'small plates' and blackboard specials, along with a choice of 20 wines all available by the glass, pichet or bottle. Open Tue-Sat, 5.30-'late'.
*The Tannery was the Guide’s Restaurant of the Year in 2004 and Paul Flynn was our Chef of the Year in 2008.
Rooms:
Comfortable, stylish accommodation is offered at The Tannery Townhouse, nearby in Church Street and a very good breakfast is served in The Tannery restaurant. You might kick start your day with Passionfruit Prosecco or Bucks Fizz before heading for the buffet display of fruits, cereals and baked goods, or tucking in to a wholesome bowl of Flahavan’s porridge. There's a great rendition of the Full Irish, of course, and tasty options like scrambled eggs with smoked salmon or chorizo - and if a DIY breakfast appeals, you could take up the rather unusual invitation to boil your own eggs! There are some great vegetarian choices - Sweet goat’s cheese with honey and salted almonds on toasted brioche, perhaps - and, at weekends, there is often a grilled fish special in addition to the main menu too. A real treat.
*The Tannery Cookery School is also just around the corner; full details on www.tannery.ie
