Chef Andrew Duncan brought experience at top kitchens around the world (and some local ones too) when he opened his own restaurant, Table Forty One, in the centre of Gorey in 2018 - so no surprise, perhaps, that he hit the ground running with his new enterprise.
You could easily miss the street entrance on a dark night so keep an eye open for a sign over the door, which leads up a well lit staircase to the first floor restaurant. In two rooms connected by an open arch, it's an attractive space with a couple of windows overloooking the street, timber floors, and dark green walls with contrasting white paintwork. With paintings by local artists and music from the sixties in the background, it has a lot of personality - just like his small, carefully honed menus.
Local, foraged and home produced foods provide the background the story here, even if it isn't always spelt out - and some of the flavour combinations tend towards the exotic.
While the menu is tight, with just three choices on each course, it changes often. The choices are balanced and will include imaginative vegetarian dishes as well as a main course special (a good steak topped with the Portobello mushroom and a dollop of bacon jam, perhaps) and a local cheese course option to round off the meal.
The cooking and presentation are excellent, and served in a relaxed 'fine dining without the fuss' style. To begin, a delicious little basket of bread is served with creamy butter in a small Kilner jar, almost like a mini-churn, and appetisers might include an eye catching vegetarian dish of Quinoa, hummus, goji berries, pickled cauliflower and balsamic - and home cured salmon, or or an intriguingly named Dynamite Shrimp with lime, chilli, coriander and Asian Slaw; dramatically presented in a martini glass it may not be the easiest to eat but it's well worth the effort.
There may be cornfed chicken among the mains; maybe Potato gnocchi, with pumpkin, and parsnips for vegetarians; and Irish Brill with bok choi, coconut and a mild Madras sauce for the fish choice - and something unusual sush as a good plateful of root vegetables (potatoes and colourful heritage carrots) as a side dish.
Desserts might include a retro Rum and raisin bread pudding, or maybe something seasonal such as Local baked walnuts, with chocolate, maple and vanilla ice-cream - or you can finish with a local cheese, served with chutney and crackers.
Like the menu, the wine list is short but well chosen (although just one white and one red available by the glass) and, together with excellent and friendly service to match the good food offered, it all adds up to a great experience. And it's terrific value too - no wonder the good news is getting around!
