Georgina Campbell
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Opening a restaurant - or any other business - during a pandemic is a leap of faith but, with 70 years of experience between them, chefs Simon McCance (owner of Belfast’s wonderful Ginger Bistro for nearly two decades) and Simon Toye (who has led several outstanding kitchens) were justifiably confident about this joint venture when they opened Stove Bistro in September 2020.
Despite being closed for several weeks after opening - time that was used well by the canny pair to tweak the offering - Stove got off to a great start and, although conceived mainly as a neighbourhood spot for local residents, this modest first floor premises in south Belfast soon became one of the city’s must-visit destinations. And, with Simon McCance bringing business expertise and Simon Toye in the kitchen, the partnership provides a solid foundation for a restaurant that’s built to last.
Simon Toye is best known from his time with Michael Deane but - with its quiet excellence, local flavours and good value - his former Co Derry gem, the Inn at Castledawson, also made its mark on the Guide many moons ago and is not forgotten. There are similarities at Stove, where the stated aim was ‘to create a community bistro that was casual in atmosphere but renowned for exceptional and affordable food and drink’ and boy does it deliver.
The room is simple, modern, pared back. But the warm and well trained team and striking artwork - there’s a partnership with ceramicist Roy Shearer, who has produced a very beautiful and tactile collection for the restaurant - makes a statement that this is a place that goes beyond expectation.
Like some other classically trained chefs who have moved away from fine dining, Simon Toye’s menus offer the best of every world. Expect superb local, seasonal sourcing and an eclectic repertoire of unfussy dishes that look wonderful on their bespoke plates and platters and delight with robust, multi-layered flavours.
While seasonally-led, there are enduring classics that may be hard to move off the menu. Starters like the unctuous twice-baked cheese soufflé with creamed leeks, for example, or Walter’s smoked salmon (from legendary Belfast fishmongers, Walter Ewing’s) with celeriac remoulade, watercress and granny smith apple, while the main course that brings ‘em back has to be the flax fed beef from Tyrone butchers Lisdergan - whether blade, flat iron, rump or whatever, it’s a winner and Stove’s crunchy hand cut seasoned chips are a perfect match.
But puddings like frangipane tart or silky buttermilk panna cotta are worth saving space for too; or you can finish on a savoury note with something from Mike’s Fancy Cheese - this being cheesemaker Mike Thomson, of the stilton-style ‘Young Buck’ fame and the gorgeous Little Donegall St shop.
The wine and drinks options are equally well considered, with plenty of local products offered including spirits like Jawbox gin to give that opening cocktail a special buzz. All this and terrific staff who want everyone to have a great time - no wonder Stove is so popular.
