Georgina Campbell
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One of ireland's best loved chefs, Danny Millar - formerly of Balloo Inns and other esteemed establishments in Ireland and beyond - teamed up with his old friend Andy Rea of Mourne Seafood in 2019, to open Stock Kitchen & Bar in the restaurant above St George's Market.
It's a beautiful light-filled space with some especially popular 'terrace' tables overlooking the bustling market stalls below - reminiscent of Farmgate Café at The English Market in Cork and a poignant reminder of what Dublin could still do with its sister building, the recently closed Victorian fruit and vegetable market in Smithfield, if the will is there. St George's Market nearly met the fate of so many other unloved covered markets in the early 1990s and yet, following protests and a multi-million refurbishment, it reopened to great acclaim in 1997 and is now a vibrant market once again, and one of the city's most popular attractions.
The restaurant has had many previous incarnations, but Danny Millar's food has really hit a chord. His cooking is produce-driven, inspired by what's available at the market - superb fresh fish and seafood, seasonal vegetables - and the website is a mine of information about the Irish produce that Danny sets such store by, including a supplier map highlighting some key producers. Famous products like Peter Hannan's meats from Moira, Mikes Young Buck Cheese from Newtownards and Carlingford Oysters from just across the border, in Co Louth, feature alongside lesser known but equally good ingredients sourced as close to base as possible.
Danny's cooking style is a lovely mix of traditional and modern - whole roast fish (best daily choice at the market) with proper chips, crubeens, and 3-day slow fermented sour dough pizzas are just some of the offering and they do wonderful Home Boxes at the weekends.
There's a super Breakfast Menu, featuring plenty of Peter Hannan's good things (as in Pork belly & black Pudding croquettes, for example) and fishy treats like Marty Johnsons Smoked Salmon with poached eggs, lemon & parsley dressing and wheaten bread. Later, the main à la carte is a joy to read and , typically, you might be lucky enough to choose a dish like roast rump of lamb with fennel, roast pepper and a powerful sauce of reduced stock. With boulangère potatoes, topped with slow cooked shoulder of lamb and a generous dusting of parmesan, on the side it could be one of the best lamb dishes you're ever likely to have - pitch perfect mature cooking.
The slow fermented sourdough pizzas are incredibly good (but only available at lunch time and on Sundays) and the vegetarian and vegan offerings are outstanding. On each menu there is something to please all ages and tastes and, in the Guide's expereince, everyone's food is perfect.
Service is friendly and efficient, there's a great wine list and proper cocktails - and the atmosphere from the market downstairs really adds to the whole vibe.
When you walk in to Stock you're hit with a smell of fresh baked bread, rich sauces and searing meats - the essence of a good restaurant. What's not to love