A legend for his authentic, quality-driven street food in Derry since 2013, the internationally-experienced chef and entrepreneur Kevin Pyke has developed Pyke'n'Pommes from his original riverside van to today's dual operation - a bricks & mortar restaurant known as '53-55 Strand Road' and Pyke'n'Pommes POD, a double-decker bus called 'Decky' - to local and national acclaim, and even beyond.
Moving into an actual restaurant was a big change in 2019 but, as space was very soon too tight, their home since 2020 has been in bigger premises next door, where the second Primrose café used to be. It's a warehouse feel, part polished concrete floor, some parts mock concrete tiles with brick style walls and dark orange painted panels that add a sunset glow. With beating background music and lovely lighting adding to the vibe, it's well thought out - relaxed informal service and an abundance of families make it a sociable place, while couples are kept to the front area so it has wide appeal. True to the warehouse feel tables are very basic, like a works canteen for builders - thin paper napkins and light cutlery, squeezy ketchup, cheap malt vinegar, tin cruets - but while it may seem too dressed down for the quality of the food on offer, this basic set up works.
Big laminated menus give the all-day food offerings with drinks (including a limited choice of alcohol free cider and beer) on the reverse. Burgers are the big ticket item, notably the delicious Legenderry Burger - made with Wagyu beef, no less, although a Vegenderry Burger with a Chickpea & Sweetcorn Pattie is also available - and, for the super-hungry, the '57 Strand Road Burger' comes with two Wagyu beef patties, porter braised brisket, smoked bacon, pickled onions, cheese, chipotle mayo .... Unusally these days, they always ask how you like your burger cooked, which is a very nice touch. Mains come with lovely crisp, skin-on fries, which can be loaded with an extra topping (£4 supplement), typically of superb braised Beef Brisket - balanced, not salty strong as it often is, a perfect demonstration of the high standard of the cooking here. Tacos are popular too - one as starter or a trio for mains - and there's also a short menu of high-end cuts from their KOPA charcoal oven, including a range of steaks and whole fish, for those in the mood for a more traditional meal.
And don't pass on the dessert menu either, as this could be a high point. A beautifully balanced Key Lime Pie, for example, is a crisp tartlet with a lovely just-set citrus custard, sweet Italian meringue topping and a not too raspberryiish red sorbet - worth saving space for.
All round this busy place is a huge asset to the city. It's very well managed, the staff are super and they have created a quality street food/all day dining market that others have missed.
With its battle cry of 'LOCAL.LOCAL.LOCAL Produce, organic when possible' and excellent cooking, Pykes'n'Pommes lives up to its promise of 'Making our city taste better' - although it would be lovely to know who these local producers are, as they deserve their names to be shouted from the rooftops.
As well as the restaurant, across on the quayside there's the Pyke'n'Pommes POD - 'Decky' as they call it, is a heated double-decker bus with tables, comfortable seating and some outdoor seats as well. A converted shipping container kitchen beside it serves a more restricted takeaway menu - you may have to queue at times, but the burgers are equally good (while costing a third less than in the restaurant) and it's a lovely setting on the banks of the River Foyle, with a little marina nearby.