Mairead and Robert Gill’s popular restaurant in Nenagh lies behind an elegant grey-green frontage, you’ll find a smart but comfortable wine bar where a Tapas menu is served downstairs and a fine contemporary restaurant on the first floor.
A giant crystal chandelier lights the wide atrium beside the stairs; elsewhere in the elegantly appointed soft brown and cream restaurant, lighting is discreet and soothing. With a mixture of banquette seating and upholstered chairs, a vase of fresh flowers on each bare-topped table and light modern jazz playing softly in the background, the scene is set for an enjoyable evening.
Excellent breads arrive with a slab of fresh butter on a glass plate, and tap water is brought to the table in bottles.
Refreshingly straightforward menus offer about eight choices on each course; there are world influences, but there’s a welcome leaning towards Irish themes and, although this is definitely meat country there’s an emphasis on fish, delivered daily from Union Hall in Co Cork – the tasty and accurately cooked fish dishes offered might typically include baked fillet of hake and prawns on sautéed spinach, lemongrass cream sauce with a hint of chilli.
Meat and poultry choices might include chicken supreme served with potato gratin, pulled chicken ‘n’ bacon croquette and peas and bacon; rack of lamb comes with a herb crust, finely diced ratatouille and shoulder of lamb bonbon; and grilled Tipperary Hereford sirloin steak has a choice of sauces. Vegetables, served separately, are also good (and more varied than most Irish restaurants).
Gorgeous puddings are another highlight, including home-made ice cream, Granny’s bread ‘n’ butter pudding or chocolate mousse.
A Tipperary Farmhouse cheeseboard has a selection of Cashel Blue, Cooleeney, Camembert and the award-winning Derg farm mature smoked Cheddar, served with house tomato chutney and spiced apple jelly.
A well chosen wine list is reasonably priced and includes wines by the glass.
With interesting, well-sourced food, good cooking and combining value with a sense of occasion, it’s no wonder The Peppermill is so popular.