When Praba Sankaran opened this warmly inviting restaurant in the centre of Gorey in 2019, it was the realisation of a longheld dream for the classically-trained chef and his family - and, although the challenges of the pandemic were soon to follow, they had already earned a loyal local following that was to stand them in good stead until more normal times returned.
Thanks to Praba's background and diverse experience, the offering is unusual. His classical culinary training in France explains the main focus on fine French and Italian cuisines, but he is originally from India and also takes inspiration from dishes all over the world to create a unique and constantly-changing fine dining experience that is notable for the agreeable setting and exceptional service as much as outstanding cooking by Praba and his team.
Set inconspicuously on the side of the street, the entrance is flagged promisingly by a couple of small pavement tables and a menu on display - once inside, guests find themselves in a really relaxing room with a bar at the rear, and there's a similar room upstairs, with a smaller bar area. A lot of wood - the floor, the well spaced tables, even one wall is completely wooden, which must help the acoustics - and the simple, high-quality table settings and fresh flowers all make for a very relaxing atmosphere.
But the main feature from the moment of arrival is the wonderful staff, including Praba's daughter Lea, who all have an in-depth knowledge of the menu and wine list and take obvious pleasure in engaging with guests and explaining all the options - which change frequently.
The main menu is à la carte and well-balanced, with plenty of variations on popular dishes like Surf and Turf to please regular local diners. Everything is beautifully cooked and presented, with especially delicious examples including delicately balanced and perfectly cooked fish dishes and imaginative, freshly prepared vegetables. While provenance is not highlighted (and a supplier list would be welcome), the quality of ingredients speaks for itself. Prices are fair for the high standard offered and especially attractive on Sunday, when a keenly-priced lunch menu is available.
There's a sense of constant change and innovation, notably in the surprise tasting menu that features every Thursday evening, and changes completely every week - another big plus for local diners, who find it predictably hard to resist.
The well chosen wine list is another work in progress and continually being tweaked. While not especially long (about a dozen each of white and red, with six of each by the glass and six also served by the carafe), it has excellent tasting notes and they highlight Seasonal Wine Picks for recommendation.
With its relaxed and atmospheric ambience, lovely service and delicious food, it is not hard to see how this delightful restaurant found a niche with local diners - and looks set to become a destination for visitors to the wider South-East region.
