Just a scenic 20 minute ferry crossing from Burtonport, on the mainland - which is iitself just 15 minutes from the Regional Airport, Carrickfinn - Arranmore (Arainn Mhor) is much less visited than the more southerly Aran Islands off the coasts of Clare and of Galway - and that, in itself, will make this gem on the Wild Atlantic Way touring route a destination of choice for those seeking an authentic away-from-it all island experience.
The largest island, with a population of over 500, in a necklace of islands strung along the west coast of Ireland, Arranmore is in the Gaeltact (Gaelic speaking region) and its culture and traditions are alive and strong. It has spectacular scenery with bird watching, hill walking, sea angling, diving, fresh water fishing on its seven lakes, and sandy beaches among its many natural attractions, and also nightly music in the island's four bars, for those who like to end the day on a sociable note.
And once you've decided that Arranmore is the place for you, you won't find a better or friendlier place to stay that Jim and Noreen Muldowney's super Failte Ireland 4* rated B&B. A collection service is offered if required, and the journey from the ferry to the house, which is on top of a slight hill overlooking the bay, is on a good road with many twists and takes just 5 minutes by car.
The house, built by Jim, is a neatly presented bungalow with a conservatory and a large bay window to take advantage of the view. You may be met by a rooster (named Edwina!) and several hens residing in their little garden to the side of the house - no prizes for guessing where your breakfast eggs will come from.
Noreen is charming, friendly and bright - a delightful host - and her house is furnished like a perfectly appointed little hotel.
The bedrooms are a good size, with really comfortable beds (choice of pillows and extra blankets), flat screen TV, WiFi, tea and coffee trays and everything you could wish for - there is even a safe provided in the wardrobe. There are plenty of hotels that could learn a thing or two from B&Bs like this.
On arrival, guests are offered tea and coffee with homemade currant scones - and these are also provided for everyone who goes on Jim’s terrific Sea Safari & Marine Heritage Boat Trip (€25) on the Elsie Jayne, a charter vessel taking groups of up to 12 people. (Jim offers diving, snorkelling and angling trips too; www.divearranmore.com).
And you may be able to enjoy your catch next morning - beautifully cooked and served with rasher, tomato and lemon - or, perhaps, that night for dinner (offered by arrangement); although she also serves meat and chicke, Noreen uses the barbecue for line caught fish - which, like the lobster, crab and freshwater fish available on the island, is rarely seen on menus. Aside from the possibility of enjoying your own line caught fish, breakfast includes good percolated coffee, brown bread, scones and toast - and a perfectly cooked Irish breakfast (with freshly laid eggs of course!)
Access to Arranmore is surprisingly easy via Carrickfin - there are 2 flights daily to and from Dublin and 5 flights weekly to and from Glasgow during summer. And, with an open fire in the cosy sea view sitting room (plus oil heating supplemented by solar panels) this is a lovely place to visit all year round. Jim and Noreen's enthusiasm is infectious, and Jim’s boat trips are so professional - how often do you get a chance to catch your own fish, and eat it at the end of the trip. Walkers will love it too - visitor information and walking map provided.
Another reminder that Donegal just has to be discovered.
