Only Michael Deane would even think of attempting what has been achieved with aplomb at this acclaimed city centre destination. Deservedly hailed as Northern Ireland’s premier restaurateur for nearly three decades, chef Deane’s iconic Belfast restaurants long been the benchmark by which others in the region are judged - and nobody can match him when it comes to staying ahead of the curve, or being ready to act decisively when he senses a mood shift in this most demanding of industries.
Over the years Michael Deane and his team have effected several transformations here at the Howard Street mother ship (former home to three restaurants) with consummate ease. But, since closing the lovely fine dining restaurant Eipic in January 2024 and then the cheery Love Fish later that year, the venue has been going through yet another reinvention -The Meat Locker (always especially comfortable with itself) has been refurbished and is going strong as ever, but Eipic and Love Fish have re-emerged as mrDeanes 'Bistro, Bar and Social'.
Every detail has been meticulously thought through, from arrival at the double door glass lobby (a great idea) and the welcoming team just inside the door, to the decor with its cool modern olives and creams, excellent.lighting (skylight and well chosen fittings), choice of seating including high stools and banquettes. This may be bistro but wooden edged tables, quality glassware and linen napkins give a luxury touch. Whatever the occasion - get together with friends, dinner à deux, business lunch - the ambience is spot on.
Boards with clipped paper menus list plenty of reassuringly familiar dishes from the Deanes repertoire and a separate Menu du Jour is also offered. You could do the works - with aperitifs./cocktails, nibbles and all the courses through to various coffees and liqueurs (including Armagnacs, showing the classical side to this all purpose dining venue), or enjoy a more budget-conscious outing if you choose. An extensive drinks offering includes a multitude of wines, beers - including alcohol free Guinness - and some local ciders.
Excellent starters / small plates include the familiar Crab Meat with Celeriac on toast (always a winner and hard to pass on) and a "social " Soup (seasonal and delicious - Pea with Pancetta, perhaps). While the ingredients are seasonal and local (if not always named), main choices include world flavours - a prawn Thai curry, a Korean styled pork belly with Noodles and a spring onion salad, perhaps, as well as European dishes. To follow, sweet cocktails or updated classics like Sticky toffee pudding - and a good, mainly Irish, cheese selection.
There's a happy buzz of contented diners and Michael Deane glides quietly among the tables, making sure that everything is to his liking - and yours. The modern dining destination par excellence, mrDeanes is a true restaurant of our times.
See also: Deanes at Queens.
* Michael Deane was the Guide’s 'Hospitality Hero' in 2020
