Art house film is a genre which encompasses content and style which is often artistic or experimental, expressing the filmmakers’ personal artistic vision. In the Pálás Cinema, the restaurant perfectly reflects this ideology. It fits nicely into the Latin Quarter and encapsulates what's great about this creative neighborhood. The five-storey building houses three screens, a bar and the restaurant, and was built in the garden of an 1820s merchant house to a design by Tom de Paor. Stained glass windows bathe the interior in a kaleidiscope of shades, it’s clearly a space that’s designed to entertain and play a part in the artistic life of the area.
Merrow, the restaurant on the ground floor, is quite deceptive. At first glance it seems enormous, but you quickly realise this is clever use of light and mirrors. It is, in fact small and intimate. Serving breakfast, lunch dinner and brunch at the weekend, the menu is brief but - like the simple table settings and lovely modern china - each dish is thoughtfully conceived and well executed, with care and attention to detail.
The kitchen is run by Chef Liga Jarovoja, formerly at Ard Bia. It is wide open and exposed at the back of the restaurant, and her food is a perfect match to the modern architecture, vibrant lighting and contemporary features of the building. Beef cheek with burnt onion purée and courgette, goat cheese and pearl barley cannelloni are quality dinners and at a keen price point. The desserts are extra special and superb value. Cereal milk pannacotta with roast plums is comforting and sweet; the chocolate brownie with caramel popcorn, italian meringue and chocolate popping candy is a picture on a plate.
Upstairs the bar is convivial and fun with a good beer, wine and cocktail choice. It is becoming the go to weekend brunch spot for many. The well sourced menu features items such as Kelly’s black pudding and potato hash, smashed peas and bacon sandwich with poached eggs or spelt crepes dressed up with banana, coconut, maple syrup and almonds. There are always inventive specials and Galway's Calendar Coffee too.
This little restaurant is a must visit and you don't need a cinema ticket to enjoy whats on offer here. The kitchen is anything but apathetic, they care about the food — its quality and creativity. Simple, modern and seriously stylish, Pálás is an exciting new addition to Galway's restaurant scene as well as its arts scene.
