Chef Dave Mullan has created a little bit of heaven at the Yacht Club in Rosses Point. Although it's accessed via the somewhat utilitarian clubhouse, once you're through the door into Fish and Bean you'll find yourself in a bright and spacious seaview room, with doors onto a balcony that can be used for drinks - effortlessly chic, with uncluttered marine-themed décor, it looks and feels like a bit of the Med in Sligo.
Dave Mullan learned from the best, including Eithna’s by the Sea in Mullaghmore as well as training in Killybegs and at Ballymaloe - so it should come as no surprise that the focus is on sourcing the best ingredients and then letting them speak for themselves without over complicating things, although there's certainly no shortage of interesting flavours either.
The ever-changing menu - reassuringly headed Today's Menu, and meticulously planned - is short and divided into Nibbles, Oyster Bar, Starters, Mains, Sides and Kids. Irish, organic and local are the focus and provenance is very clear with a good supplier list on the back of the menu.
The majority of dishes are seafood and it's hard think beyond fish here - responsibly sourced fish, treated with respect and cooked to perfection is irresistible after all. Deep fried whitebait are an unusual example of dellcious simplicity and, at around €6, a real bargain too. Who wouldn't love to return here for a glass of crisp white wine and whitebait after a walk on the beach... But there are meat dishes too, including an excellent beefburger.
An especially attractive feature of the menu is the wide ranging price structure, which makes this a place for all, and for different occasions. Ever-popular Fish & Chips for example, comes in two versions. There's Posh Fish & Chips – tempura monkfish with a gloriously coloured saffron aioli, herb slaw and (outstanding) fries - which is superb, but not cheap at around €30. But there's also a more accessibly priced version made with haddock in local White Hag beer batter is about €17, and who could argue with that.
Portions are generous so it would be easy to forfeit dessert, but that would be a pity - a smooth and silky Vanilla, passionfruit & berry panna cotta is definitely worth saving room for, for example, and it's not alone.
The kids menu also changes by the day and it's a good mix of the ‘standards’ (burger, chicken goujons and chips) and small versions of adult dishes (crispy oysters, mussels & chips, fish & chips) plus desserts like a mini version of warm chocolate hazelnut brownie. (Well priced too at around €5.50-8 for mains, €3-5 for desserts.)
Although there is no bar as such, there's Guinness on tap and a few spirits and cocktails, as well as a decent wine list and some local bee and cider - also a very good selection of non-alcoholic drinks with a strong Irish slant.
All this and lovely service and good value too - Fish and Bean is exactly what people dream of finding on the Wild Atlantic Way.
