A welcome 2023 arrival in an area that's had less choice of quality places to eat than most, this exciting south Dublin addition to John Farrell’s Dublin restaurant stable (Dillingers, The Butcher Grill, 777 and Amy Austin) is easy to find on the N11, above the excellent Whelehans Wines - and it soon became a local favourite.
Operated independently of Whelehans, it has a separate entrance on the road side of the building and, at the top of the stairs, the light-filled main dining area is designed around an eye-catching zinc-topped bar with handsome leather upholstered stools, while a smaller dining room can also be used for private parties. Farrell's bold interiors feature moody ox blood walls, richly coloured Moroccan rugs and carefully selected lighting, making an atmospheric setting for a lively outing - with its buzzing central bar area and live music from Dublin singer-songwriter Niall Lawlor, this is never likely to be a quiet destination.
A wood-burning grill takes pride of place in the kitchen - dishes from it have a dedicated section on the menus created by executive chef Atish Bhuruth and head chef Domingo De Vera, and it informs their punchy modern cooking style. Vegetarian options are always available (vegan dishes on request), but quality seafood and prime cuts of meat are the stars and there will also be daily specials to choose from, usually including a fish of the day. Sharing plates include premium seafood and beef cuts like chateaubriand, while small plates are especially popular with groups and those looking for a light meal, perhaps washed down with a cocktail / mocktail from the bar, or one of the excellent wines sourced from Whelehans downstairs. The wine list is carefully constructed to give quality at entrance level while also offering some high-end treats for deep-pocketed customers and special occasions, and daytime guests can also browse the wine shop downstairs and order directly.
Themed afternoon and early evening (5pm-7pm) events are also proving popular, from the Sunday roasts menu – beef, pork or chicken with all the trimmings - to the ‘oyster happy hours’.
