Little sister to Enda McEvoy and Sinead Meacle's acclaimed locavore restaurant, Loam, Ean ('bird') brought a touch of cheer to the centre of Galway when it opened in November 2020 - albeit briefly as restaurant, as it offered takeaway only while dining restrictions applied.
It's an atmospheric spot sharing the same building as the Druid Theatre (and with direct access to it), and a lovely setting for innovative modern food based on the same 'local and seasonal' ethos as Loam. The strong team lined up by Enda and Sinead includes Head Chef, Christine Walsh and Pastry Chef Lauren Goudeket (both formerly of Loam), so you may expect an exciting offering throughout the day, beginning with breakfast (served until 11am), great breads, pastries and coffee from Barna-based roasters, Calendar Coffee.
Croissants are a favourite bake (plain, almond, chocolate, ham and cheese) and the morning's baking is put to good use in speciality lunchtime sangers such as Salt Beef w/ith mustard pickles, aged gruyere & Russian dressing (€10.50) or Ham Hock with nduja mayo, gherkins, spring onion & greens (€7.50). Earthy big-flavoured meat and game dishes quickly gained a following, but there's no shortage of temptation for vegetarian and vegan customers either.
Like Loam, there's a very hands-on ethos to the whole operation, with everything either produced in-house or selected with great care - many of the pickles, ferments and charcuterie on the menu are made by Head Chef Christine Walsh, for example, local producers such as Leaf & Root Farm in Loughrea are proudly featured, and the drinks list (meticulously sourced by Niall Flynn, Sommelier at Loam) includes local craft beers as well as organic, biodynamic and natural varieties sourced from independent small winemakers.
Despite the challenges of the pandemic, Ean hit the ground running - and very soon became one of the hottest tickets in town.
