To grab a table at the front of Eileen and Sam McNicholl's atmospheric pub, Connolly’s of Leap, is to be noticed outside one of West Cork’s coolest venues. Inside, the walls drip with musical history; but for now, the iconic but diminutive stage under a banner of two hammers and the viewing gallery above remains muted. Music has returned to Connolly’s of Leap, however, outside and undercover, sheltered between rocks to one side and trees the other. During gigs, mostly at night time but some during the day, revellers can enjoy the sound of live music with a full table service of food and drinks.
Sam - Eileen's son - is the chef and his menus have been designed with friends and sharing in mind. Pizza, chicken wings, mussels, mac n cheese. But look again. The chicken wings are coated in a sweet and sour tamarind glaze. The fire roasted aubergine in smoky ribbons, piled high with the sweet heat of red chilli, toasted hazelnuts, and an earthy, umami bomb of hazelnut cream.
The slow proven, sourdough pizza dough bases, blistered by flame, with a hearty chew - yet light - are lavished with a San Marzano tomato base and layered up with subtly different toppings. There’s the eponymous Kilmacabee, a play on Kilmacabea townland, with Toonsbridge fior di latte and smoked scamorza, crunchy breadcrumbs, and local Leap honey that balances out the fiery edge of the heat of the nduja. Or The Paddy, a white pizza with a brie base instead of tomato, roasted baby potatoes, Caherbeg smoked lardons, and raclette cheese - because what Irishman wouldn’t love spuds, cheese, and bacon on a pizza?
For fish, it’s mussels from Union Hall – just stone’s throw from Leap; and a clever choice as far as local, sustainable fish goes, cooked in Cork’s Longueville House Cider, and served with a sourdough flatbread.
There's a homemade garlic aioli that is an optional extra. Whatever you order from the menu, it would be foolish not to opt for a small dish of the aioli. It is unashamed in its garlickiness, thick and rich, and goes with every other dish on the menu – particularly for dunking the pizza crusts into.
The ‘Something Sweet’ option on the Guide's visit was fire roasted peaches, soft enough to cut with a spoon and glazed with its own juicy caramel, served with a decadent ice cream flavoured with cardamom, and a cinnamon and oat crumble.
The menu here is small: just eleven items in total, including dessert. Such a select menu is not cause for alarm, however. In fact, quite the contrary; for everything is well selected, considered, and designed to be cooked entirely on the fire. Most importantly, the menu reflects the venue perfectly. This is exactly the kind of easy-going, quality food you would hope to find at an easy-going, quality venue.
