Garret Fitzgerald and his partner James Boland have been very busy. Back in 2012, they opened their petite Capel Street café Brother Hubbard for breakfast and lunch to celebrate their love of the food they found on their travels of the Middle East.
Soon they started hosting Middle East Feasts in the evenings and extended into the space next door on Capel Street to squeeze in even more cinnamon scrolls and flat white enthusiasts looking for take-aways and their southside sister café, originally known as Sister Sadie but rebranded as Brother Hubbard South, soon followed.
In the meantime, they somehow found time to write and release The Brother Hubbard Cookbook, and develop a range of branded chutneys and jams. Then, in October 2017, they took a bite out of what may be the duo's greatest challenge yet; extending Brother Hubbard into the enormous restaurant space (formerly Rhodes D7) on the corner of Capel Street and Mary's Abbey. The doors of the original café are closed and this space is now being used for private events. Instead, the take-away space next door has had its wall knocked through to reveal a huge seating area with at least twice as many seats as the original.
Longtime customers, more accustomed to the cosiness of Brother Hubbard of yore, may gasp when they see that this gigantic room actually turns a corner into an equally large second and third seating area. The rooms are still warming up and the charm of Brother Hubbard, North and South, has yet to fully infiltrate the space's decor.
Even if the surroundings feel new, the menu is comfortingly familiar. Brother Hubbard staples such as their smokey beans and ham hock stew, their renowned Turkish eggs menemen and their award-winning fresh sandwiches featuring slow-roasted Irish meat have prevailed.
A notable benefit of taking over this vast space is that the kitchen size has increased in tandem. The team are now making absolutely everything on site, including their pittas and Georgian bread. Coffee is, as ever, impeccable, and remains among the best in the city. Fitzgerald is ever present, working alongside his team taking orders and delivering plates of avo and eggs and their signature scones with orange blossom butter to tables.
Brother Hubbard might still be the cafe you've been looking for, but its northside home has had a complete transformation and is recognisable only by the quality of its food and passion of its owners. Here's hoping Brother Hubbard haven't bitten off more than they can chew.
* When you're across the city, look out for the younger sibling, Brother Hubbard South (01 441 6596); formerly Sister Sadie, it's on Harrington Street, near the Grand Canal at Portobello.
