Georgina Campbell
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Opened in December 2022 by Mark Commins and Conor Graham - of Linnanes Lobster Bar across the bay at New Quay in Co Clare, and now also of Flaggy Shore Oysters - this imposing 3-storey building opposite Salthill Catholic Church would be hard to miss, with its green and blue paintwork and the name Barnacles emblazoned across front.
A big pub with a traditional ambience, it has a snug seating about eight inside the door and a number of areas for groups of varying sizes break up the huge space, including booths opposite the long bar and, upstairs, a big library, dining and drinking area that is suitable for large crowds. Outdoor seating adds to the atmosphere in summer, while the interior is probably at its best at night, when mahogany tables and buttoned leather seating bring a luxury look to it.
Chef Cormac Mac Bradaigh spent the previous two and a half years in Linnanes at New Quay - and, having brought it to a high standard (endorsed by numerous accolades) he is now in Galway to do the same for Barnacles. While including plenty of crowd pleasers, as would be expected (and some unexpected ingredients, such as the ubiquitous Tiger Prawn), the menus mainly revolve around seasonality and local produce. Although alternatives (possibly including Burren beef) are offered, seafood stars - including, of course, their own Flaggy Shore oysters, although several other seafood suppliers are credited too including the famed Kelly's Oysters, who also supply mussels.
There's quite a bit of overlap between lunch and dinner menus, with some nice customer-friendly touches (add soup or chips to any lunchtime sandwich for three euro, for example), and some local drinks such as Connemara Lager feature as an ingredient or a suggested pairing - or, in some cases both, eg the popular Beer Battered Fish'n'Chips.
Typical starters might include Sautéed Garlic & Chili Prawns (sliced fresh mild red chilli, sauteed spinach, served on thinly sliced toasted sourdough; smothered in garlic butter, it is delicious,...) or Lemon & Thyme infused Goat’s Cheese Bon-Bon (well dressed mixed greens surrounded by four bon-bons and toasted sourdough), while mains may well include perfectly cooked Pan fried Atlantic Salmon - perhaps served on a pile of lovely freshly picked sea samphire - and Specials, such as Roasted Monkfish served with a Mango salsa and Asparagus.
Expect popular desserts, such as a generous and delicious Seasonal Fruit & Berry Crumble, with crème anglaise (or, more likely, custard) and vanilla ice cream
While small, the wine list offers an interesting selection from France, Italy Spain and Germany, including some organic wines - and a large blackboard offers cocktails too, so there's plenty to please younger drinkers.
Families are welcome, especially at weekends when the speciality Sunday Roast makes it an atttractive multi-generational destination.
A welcome addition to the Galway scene, Barnacles comes with a great team who bring both enthusiasm and experience, so it looks set to take its place among the city's longterm favourites.
